Interview with the Chief of Zhibu

September 8 : Started this morning, and about one P.M., anchored off the town of Zhibu. The arrival of the ship at Gandiko had been heard of, so that there was no cause of alarm, and we immediately sent a message to inform the sariki that we would shortly pay him a visit.

The town is about a mile from the river, situated on a rising ground, commanding a fine view of the Binue and the country around, and appears to be of greater extent than Idda in Igara, compact and thickly populated. After about a quarter of an hour’s detention in the street, we were invited in by the sariki’s messenger, and passing three entrances of conical roofs, at some distance one from the other, we came to a fourth, where the king was sitting, ready to receive us. He told us that his name is Bohari, but he is generally known by the name of Zumbade, and is the head, or king of the Zhibh district. lie is by birth a Djuku, or Kororofa, as are also Ama, of Gandiko, and Garike, of Gankera ; lie seems to be about forty years of age, and is rather of a surly countenance. After the usual salutation, Dr. Baikie told him the objects of his visit ; namely, to enquire after Dr. Barth, and to propose opening trade with them. No intelligence of Dr. Barth had reached them ; of trade they were highly delighted to hear, and requested at once that the ship should proceed no further; but they were told that we must proceed onward to make enquiry after the white man, if possible, at least as far as Hamaruwa. The chief said it would take us eight months to go there, and the river would rise during this month only, and begin to fall the next, and in a little time it would not be deeper than a man’s waist, so that our ship being large, would not have water enough for the voyage downwards ; besides which, there are many rocks in the river, and he was afraid, if any thing should happen to the ship, it would be attributed to him, for not having given us proper information ; that the people higher up were Kaferis, and would run away when they saw the ship. We soon perceived his motives in all this, but thanked him for the information. Dr. Baikie gave him presents from government, for which he gave in return, a sheep and a calabash of fresh butter, and an Haussa tobe to Dr. Hutchinson. But there was another question, which the most hardened conscience must feel to be disgraceful to humanity. The king called Aliheli, our interpreter, into the inner yard, and showed him a little boy whom he had to sell, and asked him whether he would not purchase him. Aliheli told him, that Englishmen were altogether opposed to the slave-trade, and when they came out, he requested that the ship might stay to-morrow, that his people might have the chance of selling ivory — a request which was at once complied with. We then returned to the ship. When the chief was asked if a bullock could be purchased, he said they had plenty, but they were with their masters. He was asked who these masters were, but gave an evasive answer ; but we had learnt from the people that they were slaves of the Filanis, and came from Yola and Hamaruwa, which the chief did not wish to confess.

September 9 : While the Krumen were engaged cutting wood, the people came on board to trade. Bohari, the chief, rode close to the bank to see the ship, and to observe how his people behaved. With some persuasion he was got on board, but not before he had ordered all the traders to be removed from the ship. He, as all the others had been, was surprised at the size of the ship, and no wonder, for they themselves have but very few canoes, small and old, hollowed in parts out of two different trees, and sewn together with ropes, as one would join an old broken bowl. The ship’s boats had to convey the traders to the ship, and land them the whole day. The kinds of grain grown here are maize, or Indian corn, guinea corn, and the straight-headed grain, called gero, and dawuro ; rice is grown, but in very small quantity, though thousands of bushels of it might be produced yearly on the irrigated banks of this river, which would supply millions of people with wholesome food. In consequence of the men being chiefly occupied in marauding expeditions, the infirm male and female slaves are generally employed in the cultivation of the soil. No yams, plantains, bananas, coco’s, oranges, cocoa-nuts, or pine-apples, are to be obtained — these plants not being cultivated. No eatables are hawked about the streets by girls and women, nor are there any places of refreshment, or eating houses under sheds ; in short, there is no market in this country like those met with on the west bank of the Niger. They barter one thing for another, corn for beer, and beer for corn, ground-nuts for rice, &c., but some people took cowries for ivory, to be carried to the Haussa country, where they are current. There is a total absence of palm-trees here, and consequently no palm-oil, and soap is a very scarce article. The people, with very few exceptions, are scantily clothed, ragged and dirty. Clothes are consequently in great request, so that in exchange for fowls, goats, sheep, ducks (of which they possess many), and for mats and corn, they ask cloth. The chief offered to send some persons with us to show us where the rocks were, and his offer was accepted, but they were not ready to come on board till the morning, and were told to be ready at cock-crowing.

September 10: Sunday. Got under weigh at six A.M. The guides were not forthcoming, so that we went without them. About ten A.M., we anchored, and had divine service about a quarter to eleven. I preached from Heb. vi. 19. At one o’clock we got under weigh again, and anchored about six P.M., having made about sixteen miles above Zhibu. This morning, as the Krumen were set to cut wood for the furnace, I could not but feel for them, as they went very reluctantly to work. It is a reproach to us, who profess to observe the Lord’s-day, and teach others to sanctify it, thus to violate it ourselves. Six days hard labour is sufficient for any man or beast, and all ought to rest on the seventh. What good could I do among the Knimen on the Lord’s-day, when speaking to them of the Christian Sabbath ? No human habitation was visible from the water, and the country continues low and flat ; but rising ground, at times, appeared at some distance from the river. A singular-looking isolated sugar-loaf hill was seen on the left side of the river, in the direction of the back, or south side of Zhibu. We anchored among a herd of hippopotami, which were heard grunting about the ship ; Dr. Baikie and Mr. May landed in the evening to take observations, but, from the proximity of these animals, were obliged to conclude their operations as speedily as possible.

September W : Got under weigh about six a.m. The country continued very flat for about three miles on an average, on both sides of the river. About eight A.M., a large forest of cabbage-palm, or palmyra trees was seen on the right side of the river, extending a considerable distance. The river here spreads very much, and shows considerable banks in the bed of the stream. In some parts they are partially covered, and when the water falls must form extensive plains of sand. We anchored about six P.M., having made about twenty-five miles. Flocks of wild ducks were sitting on the sand-banks, but as it was getting late none could be killed. A range of high mountains was seen at a distance on the left side, named Albemarle Range. No vestige of a habitation appeared all the way.

September 12 : Got under weigh as usual. The country began to present an undulating appearance at a little distance on both sides of the river. About noon we passed a feeding stream on the left, the first we have met since leaving the Confluence, and immediately after, the Tshadda became extremely narrow, being hemmed in by rising ground, especially on the right side, for about a quarter of a mile. The depth was not less than five fathoms, and the whole volume of the Binue having to pass this narrow gorge, the current became so rapid, that it was difficult for the “ Pleiad,'’ with the aid of two small sails to stem it. We began to apprehend some difficulty of navigation ; but to our no small joy, after rounding Lynslager Point, we found the Tshadda spread its noble stream over as extensive a bed as before. However, being short of fuel, we dropped anchor about two P.M., to cut wood, but unfortunately, the trees hereabouts are not of good quality, and only a little was cut to eke out the scanty stock of dry wood on board. A party who went shooting on shore, reported that they had seen traces of human footsteps on the beach.

September 13 : We remained still at anchor. All hands employed in splitting the dry wood for use. A canoe with three men was seen this morning at some distance from us, but they immediately disappeared in the bush, and would not come near. We wished much to receive some information from them as to the distance we were from any habitable village, and from the port of Bomanda, which appears to lead to the town of Hamaruwa.

September 11: W weighed about 6 A.M., and about half-past eight we had heavy rains with a high wind, and were obliged to anchor until the storm was over. We weighed, and finding a large dry tree on the left bank, anchored near to it, about two, P.M. The men were immediately set to work, and some quantity was cut before dark. There is still no appearance of town or village, nor of fishing huts or traps, nor even of cultivation of any kind.

September 15 : Continued wooding. About nine, A.M., three canoes were observed pulling downwards on the right side of the river. They saw us, and stopped to land their property on the opposite side, leaving one canoe there to take care of it while the others paddled across towards us. Every precaution was used to prevent their being frightened away. The interpreters accosted them in Haussa, to which they replied, and being invited on board, five of them came on deck. They were Filani traders in slaves from Bomanda, near the town of Hamaruwa. They left Bomanda on Tuesday, and made short journeys, first to Tshomo, whence they went to Zhiru on Wednesday, and then to Nak, where they slept last night, and started this morning from Nak. They informed us that we were in the Hamaruwa territory, and that one day would bring us to Tshomo, the port of Bomanda They gave us the names of some villages we should meet with on our way, viz., Nak and Zhiru on the left side, and Tshomo on the right; and said, that the feeding stream we passed on Tuesday is Akam river, with a village called Wunubo on the bank of it ; that there are scattered farm villages in the interior, where the slaves cultivate corn for their masters; that the inhabitants of the Zhibu district are Hamaruwa’s slaves, and that all this country is inhabited by Djuku or Kororofa, the same with Akpa or Apa, which is the language of Wukari, the capital of Kororofa, now subject to the Filanis. They asked whether we wanted to purchase slaves, to which we answered in the negative. One of them said he had ivory at home, and he would be back in two days, when he hoped to meet us and sell it. They defined as well as they could the boundaries of Kororofa, Hamaruwa, Adamawa and Bautshi; and said that the mountains visible before us, were Fumbina mountains, and that we should be eight days going to the Confluence of the Binue and Faro, pointing to the direction of the rise of the latter on the left side of the former. They added, however, that the people of Adamawa were Kaferis, and that they were apprehensive they would fight us. All this information was very satisfactory, and we still entertained the hope of being able to reach the Confluence of the Binue and Faro. We gave them a few presents, and showed them over the ship, which pleased and surprised them much. They could give us no intelligence of Dr. Barth, nor did it appear that they had heard of his visit to Yola. By six P.M., all the wood was got on board, but the ship and canoe were kept alongside the bank to enable Mr. May to take a star’s altitude. There were some goats and sheep in the canoe where they were always kept. It would seem that the scent of these creatures attracted some wild beast of prey, supposed to be a leopard, which approached very close to the ship. A little before seven, as Mr. May and Dr. Baikie were on shore taking the observation, a growling was heard among the long grass close by, and some of the sheep and goats would have been carried away had not the danger been known in time ; or, what is worse, the gentlemen might have been attacked when engaged with their instruments. Several loaded fowling pieces were fired off, which no doubt frightened the beast away ; but the period for the observation was unfortunately missed.

September 16 : Got under weigh about 6 a.m. The river keeps it breadth, but there is plenty of water, from three to four fathoms. We missed the channel, and the ship grounded three times, but she was got oft“ by backing the engine with little effort on the part of the men. A new range of hills showed itself at a great distance on the left side of the river, consisting of many lofty conical mountains. It lay behind a long ridge of high lands, running to a considerable distance, almost parallel with the river, which presented a very picturesque appearance. The tops of some of these mountains are covered with luxuriant woods and jungles, and others are quite bare and rocky. Though all these are pleasant to the eye, yet there exists no trace of any part of them being inhabited.

About eleven A.M., we passed a small group of huts on an island on the left side, which we supposed to be the village Nak, of which we were told by our informants yesterday. Our progress was very slow to-day, both from touching so many times when we missed the channel, and for want of proper fuel to keep up regular steam; in consequence of which we were obliged to anchor many times to get it up. We came to anchor about six, P.M., having made about twelve or eighteen miles against a very strong current with a short supply of steam.

September : Sunday. Dr. Baikie proposed to have service earlier, about nine A.M., instead of half-past ten, and to make half a day's sail, and meanwhile the Krumen were set to split wood for fuel. Accordingly, I performed service at nine A.M., and preached from Dan. iv. 39. There not being a sufficient supply of wood, we could not start, but the Krumen were kept at work splitting till the evening.

September \S •. Weighed about six A.M. At nine we saw the huge carcase of an hippopotamus floating down the river, and about four p.m., we anchored off Zhiru. The natives, who stood on the bank, within hearing, and armed with spears, were at first timid ; but a little conversation with them in Haussa, and a request to be supplied with provisions soon inspired confidence. We landed on the bank, and shook hands with them, had a little conversation, and made some hasty enquiries. They were sent to inform their chief that we were coming to visit him shortly ; and a little while after, the messengers returned to invite us to the town. On our way to the chief, under the guidance of one of the men, another motioned us back, and introduced us to a Filani mallam, whose name was Imoru, stationed here by Mohamma, the Idng of Hamaruwa, as a kind of deputy or consul to watch the interest of his king, because the inhabitants rob and plunder travellers on their way to and from Sokoto, Kano, Katshina, and Bautshi, as they carry on trade through Hamaruwa to Adamawa. Dr. Baikie being, for the first time, too ill to go on shore to communicate with the chief, deputed Mr. ;May to act for him. Made our usual enquiry after Dr. Barth, but no intelligence of him was received. Imoru confirmed the statement that the people of Zhibii were their slaves. He was ready to send a messenger to inform the king of Hamaruwa of our arrival. The messenger, we were told, would arrive that evening and return to-morrow morning. Imoru could not give us any information of places beyond Hamaruwa, other than the name of a town he called Batshama, whose inhabitants he termed Kaferls, and said they were a bad people. He asserted that it would take us twenty days canoe-voyage to reach the Confluence of the Binue and Faro, and that it is ten day’s journey to Adamawa. From this I understood Adamawa to be the name given by them to a principal town in that extensive country. Hamaruwa and Yola are entirely independent of one another, each holding direct communication with the Sultan of Sokoto. The present we brought for the chief was given to Imoru ; but I suspected there was another, but oppressed chief, in the town, to whom I imagined we were being led when called back ; so I asked Imoru to direct us to whom we should pay our respect next to himself. He then told his servant to accompany us in the boat to the other end of the village, where we landed, and were conducted to Fadon, the original chief of the place, and the true patriarch of his people, but whom we met greatly dejected, evidently oppressed by the followers of the false prophet. We asked after his welfare, and spoke Idndly with him, but as he did not understand Haussa, the servant of Imoru interpreted for him in Djuku, which is the language of the inhabitants. A promise was made to him that he should receive presents similar to those given to Imoru, as we were not aware there were two ruling chiefs in the town, and he was instructed to send some trustworthy person with us to the ship to receive them.

Since leaving Fernando Po, I have not met with any people so much degraded as these. It is true, that we have all along found the natives, except the children, more or less clothed, but here I was surprised to find elderly women with only a few leaves suspended from a string round their waists, with pipes in their mouths, and exhibiting the greatest unconcern. This is the same race of people I saw at Gandiko, and at first, I suspected they were Filani slaves, but upon enquiry, I was told they were free persons. It appears that these aged people would not change even the most uncivilized of their habits, though after their country had fallen into the hands of the Filanis, the men and other women adopted a better mode of clothing.

September 19 : There was nothing to be procured here, neither sheep, goats, fowls, nor even wood ; we, therefore, returned to the ship. Dr. Baikie requested the mallam to inform Mohamma, the king of Hamaruwa, that we would call on him on our way back in a few days. The mallam came to see the ship, and we managed to get some more information from him, and then got under weigh, in hopes of being able to find some trees suitable for fuel at Tshomo, the next village, where we were told we should get plenty. The steam could hardly be kept up, and we were, consequently, obliged to drop anchor several times, the current running upwards of three knots against us ; but about four o’clock we were pushed forward by a tornado from the eastward. The river takes a northerly direction about this place, and we saw two villages at the back of the swamp, and the F town of Hamaruwa was visible from the masthead, on a hill at the foot of the chain of Muri mountains. At six, we came to an anchor, in hopes of getting some fuel, the quantity on board being scarcely sufficient to get up steam. We had made about eleven miles from Zhiru.

September 20 : The boat was early sent on shore to see what wood could be obtained, but nothing was found suitable to our purpose, the trees being all green and sappy, and standing in swamps, where the men could not have maintained their footing, had the trees been such as we wanted. Another boat was sent higher up, to see if there was a village near, but it returned without finding one. As there was no alternative, a look out was kept to capture the trees floating down the stream ; and two were secured before breakfast, the chase affording us no little amusement. About ten another was chased and captured, so large that it pulled the boat a considerable way down the river, but it was secured, and greatly added to our little stock to enable us to get to Tshomo. In the meantime, Imoru, the mallam of Zhiru, came on board with the leg of a buffalo, killed last night for a present to Dr. Baikie. The doctor would have bought the head, but the superstition of the people was so strong against selling it, that they begged him not to be vexed at their denying him that request, nor could they be persuaded to sell the skulls of hippopotami, which were piled up before the fetish, in the town of Zhiru. I asked the mallam whether the people are willing to embrace Mohamedanism ? he said they were not. Imoru very earnestly told Aliheli to ask me if I would pray for his wives, as they had no children. I at once called for my Bible, and read Psalm cxxvii., which I tried to explain to him, and showed him my arms and neck, to prove that we never used charms for any purpose ; telling him that we resign all our affairs to the hand of God, who knows better what is good for us. He was quite satisfied with my explanation, though he felt disappointed of his hopes. Imoru told us, that we should meet the king’s messenger near Tshomo.

September 21 : Having succeeded in securing enough floating trees and drift wood to get up steam, we started this morning, and about noon several villages were seen at some distance on both sides of the river, which were Bomanda. on the right, and Little Tshomo on the left side of the river : all situated on the 'plain, but sufficiently elevated to insure their not being flooded at the rising of the Binue, which is very considerable. Opposite Little Tshomo, we saw five men on a tree in the swamp, who had been stationed there to invite us to anchor ; the canoe which brought them there had returned to inform the chief of our approach. A little further on we saw a large number of people on the roofs of their houses to look at the steamer, while others waited at the landing-place to invite us to anchor, but as there was no wood to be obtained there, and we were told that at Great Tshomo we should get abundance, we did not wait. In a short time several canoes began making towards us, and as we had to anchor every now and then to get up the steam, they soon came up to us, and after a little persuasion came alongside. The principal persons were the brother of the late king of Hamaruwa, a son of the late king, and Ibrahim, entitled, Sariki n Haussa, an intelligent Filani of Kano, who was master of the Haussa language, and the king’s messenger. He appears to be the chief trader of the king of Hamaruwa. In a little time they were at home in the ship, and became familiar friends. But a laughable scene of fear and confusion soon took place ; the steam was up, and the vessel weighed ; no sooner had the fan began to play, than the canoe-men, one after the other leaped overboard, and swam to their canoes in great consternation ; it was with much persuasion that I kept the king’s brother from following their example. The engine was stopped, and those who wished it, left the ship. Those who felt more confidence remained with Ibrahim and the king’s brother till the afternoon, when we were short of fuel again, and were obliged to anchor about two miles below Tshomo. The report of the ship had reached the king the evening we anchored off Zhiru, and Ibrahim was despatched by him the next morning to wait our arrival off Tshomo, and to ascertain who we were, and what our objects, as well as to express his wish to see two messengers from the king of the ship to substantiate the report which had reached him, respecting the Anasara’s ship on his waters, Ibrahim said, moreover, that the king would accompany the messengers to see the ship himself. But as we had not got to Tshomo, and there was no appearance of wood on either side of the river, Dr. Baikie could give no positive answer, but sent the messenger on shore to wait till to-morrow.

September 22 : The heavy pieces of wood which remained on board were split, and some empty casks, not much wanted, were broken up to get up steam. About breakfast, Ibrahim and the king’s eldest son were again on board, and repeated their request for two messengers to accompany him to Hamaruwa, according to the wishes of the king. As I am not yet master of the Haussa language, the only thing we could do, was to take Aliheli as interpreter, and Mr. Richards and myself offered to go with him to the king. This met the Doctor’s wishes, and about ten a.m., we left the ship in the gig, with Ibrahim, with instructions to send the boat back as soon as we landed, which we supposed would be immediately at the village of Tshomo. A mile and a half from the ship brought us to Gurowa, called the king’s farm, on the right bank, built on a small elevation beyond the rising of the water. Ibrahim landed here, and brought something with him into the boat ; the Filani chief also, Shiroma Bukari, came on board to salute us, and returned on shore. This village is inhabited by the king’s slaves to cultivate corn, and kill hippopotami, buffaloes, &c., for the use of their master. Two miles more brought us to Tshomo, situated on the same side of the river, on two small eminences separated by a small creek, but inhabited chiefly by the original natives, many of the females; being as destitute of clothing as those of Zhiru. The mothers were seen carrying children in their arms, or on their backs, with the hands of the infants beneath their arms, by which they were held fast. Here again I was struck with wonder, at the low and degraded state of the human race, when removed from all civilization. I asked Ibrahim, why they had no clothes, and he said, it was their fashion. I asked for the chief, and he pointed out an elderly grey-bearded man, standing under a tree near the. water-side, with only a small piece of dirty cloth round his waist — this was the Sariki of Tshomo. Before Ibrahim left the town, he managed to squeeze a large calabash full of Indian corn, and some quantity of stinking hippopotamus flesh from them, because they did not provide for him when he passed the night in that village. I had always considered the natives of Fernando Po to be the most uncivilized I have seen, but this people is more degraded than even the Bubis of that Island.

The creek which divides Tshomo had not enough water for our boat, so we had to pull through the flooded corn fields to get into the main creek, but as the whole was overgrown with grass and corn stocks, Ibrahim was obliged to get one of the canoe-men to take the lead. Our Krumen did not like either the appearance of our guide, or the passage he was leading us through. As a fisher and hunter of hippopotami, he had with him five or 10.3 six harpoons or spears, and pulled through the grass with his narrow canoe like a snake, while the grass was so thick that we could not see him ahead of us, nor ])perceive the track of his canoe. However, we followed in his direction, till we met him under a tree where he waited for us. We had here to stoop beneath the low branches, but a short distance brought us to the main creek. The bank being only partially covered with water, the men jumped out and dragged the boat across, and our pilot then left us to ourselves. I called the attention of Friday, the head Kruman, to mark the direction of the tree, that they might not miss the way on their return, but captain Friday and his crew did not seem to relish the idea of returning alone among this rude and apparently ferocious people. We followed the creek, thinking we should soon come to the landing-place, but contrary to our expectation, we did not land till one o'clock p.m., four hours after leaving the ship, our progress having been down with the stream since we came into the creek, which runs parallel with the river. From all the enquiries we had made, Hamaruwa did not appear to be more than six or seven miles from the river ; and considering the distance we had made down the creek, I thought we must have been at least three or four miles nearer than if we had landed immediately on the bank of the main river. It seemed to me that if the Krumen had to return with the boat against the stream, in the circuitous creek, they would not get to the ship before dark ; and under the impression that an hour or an hour and a half at least would bring us to Hamaruwa, and that we might be back by five, and return to the ship together, especially as there was no other conveyance for us except two miserable patched canoes, used to fetch corn from the plantations ; I ordered the boat to be pulled up, and lea%’ing it and all belonging to it to the care of the headman of the village of Wuzu, we started for Hamaruwa. An hour’s walk brought us in sight of the first farm village, which I at first took to be the capital or its suburbs, but I was mistaken, and was told the town was yet before us. Another hour brought us to a second farm village, and our way led almost direct west towards the furthest mountains we had left westward. By the time we had travelled three hours, the Krumen who were as much deceived as ourselves, became very much dissatisfied, and they expressed regret that they had not returned to the ship, instead of going such an unpleasant journey in which they had no interest. Truly it was unpleasant, inasmuch as we were deceived as regards the distance, and the road was by no means enviable to walk in. We had not left Wuzu half an hour before I was obliged to take off my shoes, and roll up the legs of my trousers to my knees, as did Mr. Richards, to wade through the continued splash of water and mud we met with more than one-third the way. I kept pace with Ibrahim in hopes of sighting the town so as to convey the intelligence to my weary companions for their encouragement, but we saw nothing up to about four o’clock, when we came under a tree which was a resting place. I stopped Ibrahim, to wait for the Krumen and Mr. Richards, who were yet a great way behind, when Ibrahim to encourage me, said, we had made a little more than half way. While we were waiting, he performed his devotion. I told my servant to climb up the tree, and hail the interpreter, which he did for a long while, when Mr. Richards answered at a distance, that they were coming. He was obliged to beg water for the Krumen at one of the villages, for they were hungry, having missed their midday meal ; and they felt it much, as well as the fatigue of a journey for which they were unprepared, to an unknown place among a strange people, who were only known to them as slave hunters through the country. Mr. Richards told me that he had hard work to persuade them onward. I encouraged them by reminding them that we were all similarly situated, but felt sorry for them as they might have got back, and thus avoided all this trouble. It was sunset before we entered the town of Hamaruwa, and calculating from the halts we made, and the great difficulty of walking in water and mud one-third of the way, that we did not travel more than two miles and a half per hour from Wuzu; we must have gone twelve miles and a half in a westerly direction before reaching the place. When we got half way into the town, Ibrahim showed us the king’s house, into which he went, giving his companion directions to lead us to his own, at the THE king’s hospitality.

other end of the town, where we were lodged. It took us about twenty minutes to walk to it; and all our party were glad to rest themselves, hungry and fatigued with so long a journey. About eight o’clock P.M., the king sent eight bowls of provision for us, enough for thirty persons, we being but eleven in all ; but the Krumen, though hungry, did not like the Filani food, called tuo, made from Indian or guinea corn, in substance like hard dumpling, over which sauce was poured, and which is eaten with the fingers.* One of the men would not eat at all, so I gave him some biscuits we had brought for lunch, but had not touched on the way. Ibrahim sent two more bowls of tuo in addition to the king’s supply, besides some nice mixture of fura, prepared from Indian or guinea corn, to’ be mixed in water for a nice cooling drink, with sometimes a little pepper and honey added to make it more pleasant. The king sent five sheep and lambs, with a kid, six in all, and a large pot of plum honey for our entertainment;

• The following description of the Yoruba method of eating their food is taken from Miss Tucker’s Abbeokuta, p. 26, and will illustrate this passage : — The repast “ consists of balls of Indian corn, called ‘ denge,' served up in a kind of strong sauce made of beef, mutton, fish, or fowl, with various vegetables, and seasoned with salt procured from the Popos, and with Cayenne pepper, which grows in the country. * * * When about to partake of the food, a large earthen bowl is placed on the ground, containing the denge and the sauce ; and the party sit dow'n round it. The balls of Indian corn are taken out of the bowl, broken and distributed to the different persons, each of whom dips his portion into the sauce as he eats it. There is a good deal of animal food consumed in this way, but it is never eaten solid.” From p. 117 it appears that the sauce of Hamaruwa is made with cow butter.

but unfortunately, before the honey was delivered, the pot broke, and the whole was spilled in the yard, to the great grief of all present. Ibrahim came with much sorrow to tell me of this great misfortune, and I must say, I felt the loss myself, because it would have been a very acceptable present to all the ship’s company, considering that since the fourth instant we had been out of sugar. Butter and milk had been all consumed long before, and a pot of honey would have been an invaluable substitute. But travellers must take things t as they come, and be content with such things as I they have. The Filanis use no lamps in their houses in the evening, we had therefore to remain outside the house where we were lodged, seated in the dark, as they themselves did, till bed time, when a few sticks were kindled which gave out much smoke and little light, to enable us to ascertain the position of our bed, which was rough enough. Before we turned in, Ibrahim requested me to take care of my sheep and goat in our room, for fear of the wolves with which the country abounds. I told him it was impossible to admit five sheep and a goat into a room already filled with eleven occupants, and he promised to take care of them for us till the morning. Ibrahim’s yard was full of visitors going and coming, to whom he was relating the wonderful news of the Anasara’s ship made of iron, and moved by fire. Being tired with our journey, we left them to enjoy the story, and rested ourselves after we had offered a })rayer of thanksgiving to God for his protection.

September 23 : I intended to pay an early visit to the king, and deliver my message, but he determined upon our drinking water first, that is taking breakfast before we commenced business ; in the mean time be would summon all bis bead chiefs to hear the message from the king of the ship. About eight A.M., breakfast was brought in as last night, but the Krumen could not eat it. However, Aliheli succeeded in begging some cassada for them, which they greedily devoured. I was Sony that we were so situated as regards provision on account of the Krumen, and there was no rice to be had, which is their proper food ; I therefore opened a small tin of sardines we took with us yesterday for our lunch, and gave it to them with the remaining biscuits to make the best of it they could. At ten A.M., a message came from the king that he was ready to see me. Without loss of time, we soon marched with a large party of Filanis to the king’s palace ; and after having waited a short time under a tree in the street, while our arrival was announced, we were invited in. Large curtains of country cloth were suspended without and within before the throne ; all the courtiers put off their sandals outside the entrance into the hall, and stuck their long spears, which they carry about with them as walking sticks, into the ground close by them. Besides Mr. Richards and Aliheli, I took Friday our head Kruman and another into the king’s palace, that they might see another court besides their own; as all the courtiers sat on the ground, we did the same close before the king. He was richly dressed, in tobes made of broad yellow and green silk ribbands, and a rich yellow cashmere cloak, all of European manufacture, thrown over the tobes, and a rich carpet was spread at his feet. He had on a native cap, wrapped round with a white turban, and was seated on a mud bank richly adorned, which served for a throne. He was about forty years of age, thin in person, and rather darkish in complexion, but of an intelligent countenance. As soon as we were seated before him, he saluted us many times over, in the Eilani language, which Ibrahim interpreted in Haussa, and Aliheli into English. — He was very glad to see us. It was true he expressed his wishes to see some one from the white men’s ship. His father had been king and his brother succeeded him, but they never heard of a white man’s ship coming to their country, nor had they seen any one from the white man’s country, as he had seen us. He thanked God for this peculiar favour ; and now he was ready to hear what message we brought from the king of the ship. — I then told him that our Queen had heard of his kingdom a long time, and of the large river which runs through it, as well of the Kowara which runs through Yauri and Rabba ; that ships have visited the latter several times for the purpose of trade, and that it was the Queen’s wish also, to see whether this river was as navigable as the Kowara, and for that purpose had sent the Sariki of tho ship to see what sort of water it was, and the countries through which it runs, as well to make enquiry after a white man who had visited Yola sometime ago, and returned to Sokoto, hut promised to return to some part of the bank of the Binue to wait for the ship : that the king of the ship hearing of his wish to visit the ship, had sent me to invite him on board, and would be very glad to see him. I particularly urged him to get his subjects to cut wood for us to buy, and said that we would purchase about three hundred loads, in hopes of getting at least half that quantity if possible. There was plenty of dry wood in the way to Hamaruwa, but at the distance of five or six miles from the river, which made it difficult of carriage. He had not heard of Dr. Barth’s visit to Yola, but Ivnew that a white man was at Sokoto about two years ago : as to the river, there is he said, always plenty of water till next moon, when it would begin to fall and become very shallow. He wanted to know whether the ship intended to stop here and trade, or to pass higher up, that he might know what directions to give ; but if any thing should happen to her, he should be blamed by Sariki Mussulmins (the king of the Mussulmins,) the Sultan of Sokoto, for neglecting to give proper information. I told him when he saw the Sariki of the ship, they might enter into those particulars. As to trade, he promised if the ship would stay, to get as much ivory as she could carry in a short time. He excused himself from visiting the ship at this time, saying, that as he has seen us, it was as good as if he had seen the king of the ship himself, and he was very thankful for my Ill coming at his request. >1 urged that it was worth his while to visit the ship, which indeed was like a large house, as Ibrahim could tell him from actual knowledge ; but he declined, and said he would think of it by the time the ship returned from Adamawa, if she was going up, and that he would communicate with the king of the ship by writing, respecting the water and the country between this and Yola, which was hostile to the Filanis. I then called the king’s attention to the Heathen population in his territory, who I perceived still continued in their idolatrous practices. I told him he was aware we were Anasaras, and they Mussulmins, and asked whether he would have any objection, if trade should be established between us and them, to our making an attempt to teach and civilize the Heathens in his territory, according to our way? With a smile he replied, that it was all the same, he was willing : the smile, in which his courtiers joined, seemed to imply, — you may try if you can succeed. I then presented him with the red cloak which Dr. Baikie gave me for him, and told him that I would report every thing he had said to the king of the ship. But he had been told by some one of the wonder I was performing in writing without ink, and yet, an impression was made on the paper ; he therefore requested me to write that he might see : I stepped close to him, and wrote Sarilci Hamaruwa, (the King of Hamaruwa,) and he was not a little amused to see the words drop on the paper as the pencil moved on. Having closed my interview with Mohamma by this wonderful performance, I left the court with heartfelt gratitude to God, for the success we had met with. Ibrahim remained with the king, and requested me to wait for him at home. I had told the king that I must return to the ship immediately, because I had not had an idea of the distance, and was expected on board last night, and that if we did not return soon, the anxiety of the gentlemen would be increased as regards our safety. We waited till noon, but no letter from the king had yet arrived. Ibrahim returned, and told me to wait a little more ; and about one P.M., thinking it would facilitate our progress, I sent the Krumen away with two men from Ibrahim, to lead the goat and sheep onward till we should overtake them. I began to fear we should not get on board to-day, even if we succeeded in getting to Wuzu on the bank of the creek : in short it was not till three o’clock that the letter was got ready, and brought to my lodging, where it was read by the mallam who wrote it, and interpreted to me by Ibrahim in Haussa. The king wished me to come to the Palace before I left the town, which I did in my way; and I waited outside, while he ordered Ibrahim to present me with a blue tobe of country manufacture, which was put on me, and a large blue country cloth for Dr. Baikie. They had been trying to catch a bullock for us to take to the Doctor, but the animals were so wild, that they could not succeed, but he promised to send one in a day or two. He replaced the lost honey by another pot ; and a calabash full of fresh milk, and about two pounds weight of fresh butter were added to our presents ; thus I took leave of Hamaruwa. On the way, I was told that the king was very glad indeed to see us, otherwise, we should not have had so early an interview ; that many times, messengers from the interior had to wait thirty days before they could see him ; that after we had left the palace, he sent one slave out to barter for three tobes to present to us, but the maker of the tobes was unwilling to give more than two tobes for one slave ; and that the king was obliged to borrow the one he presented to me, hoping to be able to get the other two for Mr. Richards and Aliheli, when we returned again to Hamaruwa. I was glad at last to get on our way; but I doubted very much whether we should be able to reach the ship that night. It was not till eight o’clock P.M., that we reached Wuzu, and I was glad to meet the Krumen all there in safety. I told Ibrahim to make ready for our embarkation for the ship, but he was afraid of being attacked by hippopotami in the night in the bush, through which we made our way to the creek yesterday morning. As there was no alternative, we consented to pass the night at Wuzu, though we had nothing to eat, but a little dry Indian corn which the Krumen parched for their supper. Wuzu being infested with musquitoes, not one of us had a wink of sleep till day-light, every one being occupied all night in brushing away the swarms of these insects from their persons. In and out of the house the pest was the same ; so that I sat with the Krumen near the fire which was kept up hy three sticks, and constantly fed with grass till break of day. Although we had no change of clothes, and no covering, except what we had on when we left the ship, with which we waded through the water in our way to and from the town ; we were better off than the Krumen who had nothing to protect their naked persons, and so they were more annoyed than we were. Towards cock-crewing, the cry of a wolf was heard a short distance from us. No doubt it was attracted by the scent of the sheep and goat tied in the yard where we lodged ; the men had told us that the creatures were not safe where they were, but as we had no where else to put them, I left them to the chance of escaping during the night, or being carried away by prowling wild beasts. I sat down close by, actually watching whether the wolf would come after the sheep, not to defend them, but merely to witness the attack in the habitation of man ; — the fire kept blazing by the Krumen seems to have kept it off. When going to Hamaruwa on Friday, the carcase of a horse shot by mistake in the night by the farmers, was lying close to the road, but on our return next day, it was gone, carried away by the hungry wolves; so numerous are they, that the people go about always armed, ready to defend themselves against their attack.

September 24 : Sunday. As soon as it was daylight wo hastened into the boat. The river lias risen very much since Friday, so that the creek has become an expansive sheet of water, and we were enabled to make a short cut into the main river, and about half-past seven o’clock, A.M., reached the ship to the great joy of all on board. Many and various thoughts had arisen about us, and every additional day and night of delay increased the anxiety. The joy was more than could be expressed in words, when they saw us arrive in safety, and with a good report of our reception. As the king had refused to come on board. Dr. Baikie at once determined to set out on a visit to his majesty. Having given him every information that he might prepare himself for the journey with less disadvantages than we, he, accompanied by Dr. Hutchinson and Mr. Guthrie, the chief engineer, left the ship about noon for Hamaruwa. At two P.M., I kept the afternoon service, and read the first part of the second Homily upon the Fall and Misery of Man, &c.

The town of Hamaruwa is beautifully situated on a hill, rising on the south side of the range of the Muri mountains on the west side of the Binue. It commands a fine and extensive view. The river is seen stretching along like a narrow strip of white cloth, between the shades of light green grass, which fringes the water’s edge, and a little further back is the darker green of trees, and then the blue ranges of Fumbina, with the lofty Mauranu mountain in Adamawa, on the left, and the Muri mountain in Hamaruwa, with their many fanciful peaks, on the right side, each at a distance of twelve miles from the river. In the valleys below the town, from one to two hundred beautiful cattle were feeding, and this gave life to the scenery. The houses are round, with conical roofs, built mostly of mud, about twenty or twenty-four feet in diameter. Many of these round houses are built in the premises of each master or head of a family, and enclosed with platted grass or fences which screen the whole group from the gaze of passers by. A narrow public street runs from one end of the town to the other, fenced in on both sides with grass, with now and then a lane or cross street. Except where the fences had been neglected, the inner yard of a group of huts was not visible from the street. Now and then the front of some premises is open to the street, and the people pass their time there in the heat of the day, under the shade of trees. If the town of Hamaruwa were regularly laid out, according to the plan of a civilized country, it would present a very delightful appearance ; but at the time of our visit, many houses had fallen in, and the sites were overgrown with grass ; others were planted with guinea corn, while a large portion were only partially fenced in and cultivated. The town, though situated on a hill, with a rocky substratum, is yet sandy, and thus dries immediately after the fall of the rain ; and though situated at the foot of the Muri range, yet is not so near as to sutler any inconvenience from it. At night there was perfect silence in the town, no singing or drumming was hoard, and the absence of light in the houses added to the dead stillness of the night. The inhabitants have no palm-oil, shea butter, nor nut oil for lights, and their sauce is made with cow butter. Cowries are not used, nor any other medium of circulation, but all is done by exchange, as in Zhibu. I had not time enough to inspect their market, but I think it must be very poor, and nothing like those held on the banks of the Kowara, and westward to the sea-coast. They procure water at the foot of the mountains, at a distance of nearly half-an-hour, and it is brought by the women in earthen pitchers, borne on the shoulder, because the mode of dressing their hair, plaited like a ridge, does not allow them to carry loads on their heads ; many, however, who are not so circumstanced as to keep their hair always dressed in that manner, bear burdens on their head. Very few goats and sheep were seen in the town, and no fowls ; perhaps, all these creatures are kept at their farms under the care of their slaves, but from the difficulty of purchasing any for the use of the ship, I think they can possess very few. The difficulty in getting horses to carry us from Hamaruwa to the river side, may, in like manner, be taken as a proof that they do not possess many, or else they did not wish to hire out their war horses for such a journey. Their slaves are chiefly employed in their plantations of Indian and guinea corn; but there is very little rice, although thousands of bushels of the latter might be cultivated to feed millions of people, the banks of the Binue being particularly adapted for the cultivation of this plant, after the fall of its mighty waters. The Filani themselves being military men, do not make agriculture their chief employment. They are very dirty in their apparel. It would seem that from the time tobes, shirts, trousers, and other garments are put on new, they are never wetted, except it be by rain, till they are worn to rags. With the majority, the tobes and shirts constitute their apparel by day, and their covering by night, and the trousers are often used as bags, in which corn or other things are carried. The reader may imagine what an amount of filth and vermin is thus accumulated. The females are cleaner in their apparel, and bestow more pains in plaiting their hair, and ornamenting it with flat pieces of brass, and lead, and copper rings, which are fastened on them in a fanciful manner. Large brass, lead, or iron ear-rings are suspended in their ears, and larger and ponderous rings of the same metals are worn round their arms, wrists, and legs, according to the means of the wearers ; these metals, and some silver come across from the desert to the Bornu and Haussa countries, whence they are purchased from Moorish merchants, and brought to this part of the country, the traders receiving in return slaves and ivory. Many of the rings are manufactured in Kano and Katshina, in the Haussa country, and there are some Kano brass-workers even at Hamaruwa, who are carrying on their trade with much success ; some specimens were bought from them. Ur. Baikie bought a pair of brass leglets, weighing five pounds, for which the man asked 45,000 cowries, the price of a slave, but he took much less.

Traders from Kano and Katshina visit Hamamwa in large caravans, and sometimes pass onward with other parties to Adamawa, where they purchase slaves and ivory, the former carrying the latter, and both are sold to the Moors in Kano or Bornu. There is a Katshina man here, who is trading for an Arab in slaves and ivory. He is the merchant who brought the suit of silk dresses and carpets in which the king appeared on Saturday, and which he sold to his majesty for fifty slaves, these have not all been paid, but when that has been done, another suit, still in the possession of the merchant, will be purchased. The slaves are used at the same time as beasts of burden, loaded with ivory, and marched to Katshina, Kano, or Bornu ; in this way tons of ivory are yearly carried away from the banks of the Binue, and the country is depopulated by the slave-dealing Filanis. Sometimes the ivory and slaves find their way to the west of the Kowara, and thence to the coast. Two routes to Yola from Hamaruwa were given us by Ibrahim ; the one of fourteen stages, of nearly a day’s journey each, round the Fuinbina mountains, circuitous but safe, being occupied by, or under the influence of the Filani.s, and the other very short, of only four day’s journey along the left side of the Binue, but so dangerous, that a part of the journey must be performed in the night. The part of the country where the natives are hostile to the Filani traveller, is called Zena, and its inhabitants are said to possess many horses. The other unsubdued native tribes who are so much dreaded.

are the Batshama, Bula, and Dampsa. We have been many times warned to take care of ourselves when we come in contact with them ; for they are sure, we are told, to attack us, none of them being able to speak the Haussa or Filani languages, so that we shall not be able to communicate with them. On the back of Muri range, behind the town of Hamaruwa, are tribes of Pagans, called Wuruku and Zangale, who are said to be cannibals, and go about naked, some of whom have been conquered, and are now subject to the Filanis. Ibrahim was very proud of giving us the names of the principal states under Filani governors, who communicate direct with the sultan of Sokoto. They will be mentioned with the route to Yola in a subsequent page.

September 25 : A great number of people visited the ship to bargain for clothes, in which they are very deficient : for their knives, spears, bows and arrows, rings, swords, wood, salt, &c., they asked for cloth, and very little for other things in comparison. When they were thus engaged, it was very difficult to direct their attention to other things, every one being desirous to get what he could. Some rich Haussa traders brought swords, tobes, c&c., from Katshina and Kano to he sold on board ; the swords are said to be made by the Gadamawa, whom I could not otherwise make out than as the Moors of Gadamis. The red silky wool is said to he brought by the same people in its dyed state, and sold in the Haussa country. In the evening, Mr. Guthrie arrived alone, having left Dr. Hutchinson at Wuzu waiting for Dr. Baikie, who had not then arrived.

September 26 : About noon, Drs. Baikie and Hutchinson arrived. Dr. Baikie travelled yesterday alone, without a guide, and no horse. He missed his way, and was benighted in the bush, so that he was obliged to climb a tree, and pass the night in it. During the night, he heard the cry of leopards not far from him. The situation was a very dangerous one in a country so infested with beasts of prey; and we were all very thankful that nothing worse had happened, as God has thus far prospered us in our journey.

September 27 : As there was no prospect of getting wood, and the season was advancing, it was decided that the steamer should proceed no further, but Dr. Baikie and Mr. May took boat for three day’s sail higher up the river, leaving the mate in charge of the ‘‘ Pleiad ” till their return on Saturday. The other boat was sent to Wuzu, to kill two bullocks which the king had given to Dr. Baikie, for they were too wild to be brought to the ship in the little boat. Both boats being away, we could not communicate with the village till nearly the evening ; when the mate went on shore, and came back, with a report that the river was falling. The apparent fall, however, was merely the cessation of the rapid flow, occasioned by a sudden copious supply from heavy rain, and, in fact, the river had not yet arrived at its height.

September 28 : Early this morning the mate went on shore again, and reported that the rive G had fallen two feet, and that he had been informed that it would not rise higher this year. Those interested about the ship advised her dropping down at once. I did not like leaving the two Government officers behind, among a strange people in an unknown country. If anything should happen to them, how were we to know of it at Zhibu, a distance of upwards of one hundred miles down the river, where it was proposed we should wait for them, trading meanwhile with the natives? The result proved, that the “ Pleiad ” might have stopped a fortnight longer off Gurowa; but under the circumstances, it Was thought better to weigh anchor, and the ship began to drop. While the steam was being got up, the boat was sent for all hands from shore, and thus I was disappointed of my purpose, to spend some time on shore to ascertain the religious rites of the people, and by quiet conversation to collect as much information from them as I could. On Tuesday night, a buffalo, a leopard, a crocodile, and some ground pigs killed by some hunters, were brought to the village of Gurowa. No sooner had the hunters arrived with their prey, than shoutings, loud cries, and shrieks were heard in the village, in praise of the gods who had thus given them success in their expedition, and a great part of the night was spent in singing and drumming. The heads of the animals were cut off, and dedicated to the gods as their portion, being placed in the front of the gods’ house. All Wednesday was spent in the same manner, shrieking and crying the praises of the gods. The head of the crocodile being a fine specimen, Mr. Dalton persuaded the hunters to sell it, but he had to pay a good round sum before the gods could be deprived of their rights. Although the village comprised no more than thirty or forty huts, yet it had two or three gods” houses. I asked a Haussa man resident in the place, whether none of the Djuku, who are Filani slaves in thir village, ever embrace Mohamedanism ? He said. No, never. I asked why they were not taught to worship as the Filanis do ? lie replied, Are they not slaves ? There is some improvement among them, however; and their females have substituted cloth for the leaves observed at Tshomo and other places.

With little steam the “Pleiad” ran down the river like a shot ; in nine hours we made between sixty and seventy miles from Gurowa. All the high banks were completely covered, the river must have risen seven or eight feet since we went up about ten days ago. The country was flooded, on an average two miles inland, to the foot of highland on both sides of the river ; creeks and large collections of lakes were visible to a great extent on both side.s, and this, in part, may account for the absence of towns and villages immediate!}' on the river’s hanks in this part of the country.

September 29 : As there was no wood, we hedged down the river, which was difficult, on account of the number of islands, and the ship would not answer well to her helm without steam, though the fan was unshipped. Unfortunately, about four r.m., she drifted abreast of an island, and stuck fast in the imid, with a strong current on her starboard broadside ; attempts were made, but she could not be hove off this evening. - September 30 : Last night a terrific tornado blew, with copious rain, thunder, and lightning ; the ship was dashed against the bank with great violence by the strong wind and current, and driven more on to the bank. I felt less for our own situation than for those whom we left higher up in an open boat ; however, they were resigned to the care of that kind Providence by whom we have been preserved to the present time. Efforts were resumed to get the ship afloat ; every combustible material that could be spared, such as empty boxes, casks, useless paddles, &c., were split for fuel to get up steam to assist manual force, but, unfortunately it was discovered that the bilge injection was blocked up with the mud, so the engine would not work. The little steam was, therefore, blown off, and the only chance of getting afloat now, depended upon our personal exertions ; but nothing was effected to-day. From the rains of last night the river rose very perceptibly, and this gave a good hope of success, though some began to entertain doubts of it, and to talk of her probable abandonment. Three canoes were seen on the other side of the river, but they would not come near us.

October 1 : Sunday. The labour of getting the ship afloat, was resumed early this morning ; the Krumen worked hard, but repeated failures after many laborious attempts discouraged them much. The fear that she might have to be abandoned was still entertained by some. I felt still more uncomfortable on account of Dr. Baikie and Mr. May who were left behind, and was very anxious for their return in safety. At noon, when we were at lunch, the Krumen, who likewise had been anxiously looking out for the return of their countrymen with the boat, gave loud cheers when they saw it coming at a great distance. We were all instantly on deck, and were glad to see the whole party safely on board. They had made a voyage of thirty miles higher up the river from Gurowa; and reached the following villages : — Tshomo, a mile from Gurowa on the right side; Lau, higher up on the left, Bandawa, Djin, Abiti, and Dulti. The people call themselves Baibai, the same as the Djuku, or inhabitants of Kororofa. Batshama on the right, and Dampsi on the left, are independent of the Filanis, the other places are more or less under their control. They remain in their wild and uncivilized state ; at Dulti they live like amphibious creatures in their flooded village. Their propensity to pilfer became manifest from their rude familiarity, handling every thing about the gentlemen more than was pleasant, and an attempt to stop the boat, was a sufficient warning for the explorers to get out of the midst of this people with all speed ; while they were making their way out of the grassy creek, the natives pursued them in the canoes, if possible, to seize and detain the boat, with a view no doubt to plunder them ; nor did they return from pursuing them, till the boat had fairly got into the open river. Our party returned to Gurowa on Saturday morning, and were quite disappointed at not finding the “ Pleiad” there ; but they received notes informing them of the cause, and apprising them of our intention to drop down to Zhibu. They weathered the heavy tornado of Friday night in the open river, exposed to the inclemency of the weather, rain, thunder, and lightning. On Saturday, they attempted a new passage through a creek which they supposed would lead them to the main river a short distance below, hut instead of this, they were led to an extensive lake formed by an immense spread of water over a large space of ground on the left side of the river, and here they were obliged to pass the night, not reaching the open river till about half-past eight A.M. to-day. After not much more than three hours’ pull, they saw the “ Pleiad” at a distance, which they suspected was aground. AYe had much cause for thankfulness to God for bringing them back safely, after passing four nights in an open boat. All efforts to get the ship afloat to-day were fruitless ; in consequence of this, we could have no service. At half-past seven p.m., I read the Evening Prayers in the saloon, but only some of the officers could attend.