Return of the Expedition

October 2. The labour of getting the ship afloat, was resumed with the united efforts and assistance of Mr. May and Dr. Baikie ; and to the joy of us all, our object was effected about three P.M. ; the continued rising of the water greatly assisting us. At noon, a canoe was seen pulling up, and stopping among the grass to look at us ; she was hailed alongside : she came from Zhibu, about twenty miles below us, and had on board as passengers, two Haussa traders, men of Bautshi, who were returning from Zhibu with two slaves and some ivory which they had purchased. The ivory was bought from them in exchange for cowries and some goods ; the slaves sat in the canoe unshackled, as there was no chance of their escape when travelling on the river, but they had on board the irons to secure them, two pairs of which were purchased by Dr. Baikie. The canoe had to pass the night among the hushes, because there were no villages near the water-side for them to put in. I asked about the population of this part of the country, and was told that from Zhibu to the Akam, or Kankundi river, and five day’s journey inland from Zhibu, no human habitation is to he found. I asked, what had become of the inhabitants ? They replied, they had all been carried away captives to Sokoto. I asked of what nation were the slaves they had on board ; and they said they were Baibai, of the town of Gomkoi, a tribe of the inhabitants of Kororofa, who had retreated into the interior, and there maintained their independence in some hilly localities secure against the inroads of the Filanis. They said travellers must sleep five days in the bush before they reach Gomkoi. I asked whether the people of Gomkoi had horses ; they replied, that horses are taken across that way from Bautshi, and exchanged, five slaves for one horse. I showed them pieces of iron, called “ Kantai,” which I got from Hamaruwa, the use of which, I had not the opportunity of learning at the time. They said, they were used as currency, one hundred such pieces, being the average price of a slave. I asked whether the inhabitants of Gomkoi were Pagans or Mohameclans; and was informed, that they were all Pagans; that the males wore some sort of cloth around their loins, but the females, only a few green leaves. On asking whether they were cannibals ; I was answered in the negative. I then inquired the name of the country on the right side of the river. They said, Bautshi, and told me that we were nearly opposite the village of Dali, the smoke from which was visible ; from Dali one goes to Dampara, and then to Wazai, and on to Yakoba. I asked what language was spoken at Bautshi, and they said, the Haussa and Fdani, but that Haussa is the prevailing language, though the country belongs to the Filanis, and that Mohamedanism is the prevailing religion.

On their departure, I requested them to use the poor slaves kindly, the only help I could render to the poor unfortunate sufferers. When the traders were on board, a canoe was perceived issuing from the bush with five or six men in it ; on looking at it with the glass, the people were observed busy making some strange gesticulations towards the ship, as if they were performing some incantations, whether for her detention or departure, or invocation to her as a deity, we could not learn. The men were marked with white chalk in long streaks on their bodies, as worshippers of the gods are distinguished at the time of their devotion. They had been in sight about an hour, when the canoe from Zhibu came up to them, and I believe spoke to them. In a few moments they left the spot, and followed the track of the traders up the river, and both were soon lost sight of.

October 3 : Started at eight A.M., to drop down, and anchored off Zhihu at seven p.m. ; at eight o’clock, a gun was fired to announce our arrival, the town being about a mile from the river. The high banks we left about three weeks ago were completely covered, and the flat ground overflowed a considerable distance ; the corn-fields, where the people stood to sell their articles, and the chief rode about among them to keep them in order, and where our Krumen cut wood for fuel, were now navigable for boats and canoes to the very foot of the hill where the town of Zhihu stands.

October 4 ; Early this morning we dropped a little lower down, for the convenience of wooding. Dr. Baikie, not feeling quite well, requested me to communicate with the chief, and to tell him of our intention to visit Wukari through him, and to ask him to supply us with horses and messengers to take us thither ; a velvet shirt was given me for him at the same time. Ha\’ing ascertained the possibility of visiting Wukari from this place, especially as messengers from the king of Wukari were here, I returned on board to inform Dr. Baikie, and that the final arrangements for the journey required his presence.

October 5 : Went to the town on the subject of our journey to Wukari ; everything seemed fair and promising, but the difficulty was about getting horses ; owners were not willing to hire out their horses for the journey, under an excuse that there was so much water on the road, and that if their horses made the journey, they would die on their return. It took us some time to reason the chief out of this pretence; he then said, they had not more than five horses in the town, which we positively denied to be true : he then said, we should have three horses to take us to Zu, half-way between here and Wukari, where we must stop overnight, while the messenger goes to Wukari to fetch horses to meet us. Zu is a market-place, where people from Zhibu and Wukari meet for trading and return, but it is not inhabited. I asked him whether it was kind in him to let strangers from a far country sleep in the bush for want of a conveyance, when the journey could be made in a day without such exposure ? He had been coveting another sword from Dr. Baikie, under the false pretence, that the one which was given him three weeks ago was broken, and sent to the blacksmith for repair. We asked to see the broken sword, but it was never shown ; and thinking this a favourable opportunity to satisfy his covetousness, he a.asked for three swords if the horses were to take us to Wukari. lie was told of the unreasonableness of his demands, and we asked, if he, alone, were to receive four swords, what we were to give to others ? However, the Doctor was willing to sacrifice another sword to his avarice, and to pay him in addition 20,000 cowries, to which he agreed, and the messengers were particularly requested to be ready with the horses early next morning, so that nothing might delay us. Having completed our arrangements, we returned to the ship, but with some doubt whether we should get the horses. Wo have made up our minds, however, in case of disappointment to perform the journey on foot, if we could procure a guide.

October 6 : Early this morning we left the ship according to promise, and went to the king’s house. We found him sitting in the outer entrance talking with one of his headmen, and with a furrowed countenance, indicating sourness of temper and feelings of dissatisfaction. We saluted him, but our salutation was coolly returned. We then told him we were ready to start for Wukari, according to the arrangements of yesterday. He wanted to know why we did not go first to the Galadima, his chief officer, and come with him? We began to apprehend difficulty ; however, a messenger was sent to call the Galadima, who came without delay : the chief then asked why we did not pay first, before we had the horses? We asked him whether he thought we were liars, or that we had come from our country thus far to deceive ? After many vain and groundless excuses, it was proposed that the sword and cowries should be sent for from the ship, and the cowries measured before him, to show we had no intention to deceive. Dr. Hutchinson returned to the ship and brought them ; but no sooner did the chief see the sword, than he said, the sword he wanted for himself, but cowries were of no use to him, and that he must have cloth in their stead. This was sufficient evidence that he was deceiving us ; and we would have performed the journey on foot with the messengers from Wukari, but they were under his control. They said they were not ready, having to prepare their food for the journey; we offered to feed them from our own provision, but they still shuffled, till at length, seeing plainly that the king was befooling us, Dr. Baikie determined to show his independence, and told him that when the vessel next returns to the river, it will go to Hamaruwa, and report his treatment of us to his master ; reminding him that we were not his boys to be treated in a manner so unbecoming a king. We then took our cowries, and sword, and luggage, and returned to the ship. Before we got into the boat, a messenger was sent to call us back, but as we had been so much deceived, we would not listen to him, but told him that if the king had anything to say, he should send properly to us on board. About an hour after, a canoe was sent with a message from the Galadiina, to call us back, intimating that he had been blaming the king since we had left, for his bad conduct to us. The messenger was sent back with many thanks to the Galadima for his kind interference, and to tell him the object of our visit to this country, and assure him that our intention in visiting Wukari, was more for their advantage than for our own. In proof of this, I showed him a tumbler, a carving-knife, some biscuit, bread, and salt meat, and asked him whether they were not superior to their calabashes, Indian corn, and the rough-made knives wo bought from them for mere curiosity ? I told him, moreover, that by hindering our visit to Wukari, the king only acted against the interest of the country in general, and that when he had once deceived us, we could not believe him any longer. A short time after, the Galadima himself came off with the king’s messenger and his own, to mediate in person between us and the king. He said that the king had done very wrong, and had been blamed for it by him, and that he would guarantee for our visit to Wukari, whether we wished to start to-day, or to-morrow morning. Considering the effort this generous-hearted man was making on our behalf, after showing him the great interest we took in the country, and explaining to him that the conduct of the king was calculated to turn it into another channel (as he evidently saw and acknowledged), we promised to consider the matter till the afternoon, and then we would let him know our intention. lie begged of us not to disappoint him, and desired us when we went to the town, to go to his house, that he might accompany us to the king and reconcile us, and then make arrangements for our journey to Wukari to-morrow morning. He then left the ship, with the promise of a visit from us in the afternoon. The people were quite displeased with the king’s conduct towards us, and were at the same time afraid to come on board to trade, as we had left the town this morning in displeasure ; but the Galadima was told that our matter with the king need not prevent the people’s coming to trade, and that they had no cause to fear. According to promise, after four o’clock, I started for the town. Mr. Richards accompanied me, and we went to the Galadima’s house. He was absent from home, because a man was being installed this day as Sariki n doki, i. e. the king of the horsemen, or head of the cavalry. There was drumming and war dances.

with horns blowing, and soldiers parading the town with as much excitement as if they were going to storm a city. The Galadima was told that we were come, and the whole train followed him to his gate. The warriors armed with bows and arrows, and spears, moved towards us in parties of six or ten with speed, and then made a sudden stop, shaking their weapons towards us with an air of great self-importance. The women stood by the fence shrieking their cry in praise of the Sariki n doki, who was riding a fine young steed belonging to the Galadima. The horse was led by a man with a cord in his hand, to prevent accidents among the crowd, as well as to save the Sariki n doki the trouble of watching his carrier, as to-day was to him a day of pleasure and ease. I had expected to see the people in their holiday vest, to-day being also Friday, the Alitshima of the Mussulmans, in which they partially abstain from their ordinary pursuits. I was disappointed, however, for with but few exceptions, they were as dirty and ragged as at other times. The procession passed on, and we entered with the Galadima into his inner yard, and he seated us in his praying ground, a space of about twelve feet square enclosed by four sticks, to discuss the subject of our visit to Wukari. He gave me many thanks for coming according to promise, and said that he had blamed the king much for his unfair dealing, that he only retains the title of king, but that he, the Galadima, was the chief manager of public business, that we might make ready for the journey to-morrow morning, and that we should give the sword, which the king desired for payment, with three measures of cowries (30,000), or, if we liked, three red shirts instead of the cowries. Our stock of red shirts was nearly exhausted, I, therefore, agreed to pay cowries instead. I then asked how many horses we were to have ; he said he was sure of his own, and one from the king, but the owner of the third had not yet been asked, and it was not certain whether he would let it or not, but that the king would ask him, and pay for the horse. I wanted to know the certainty of obtaining the third horse, and whether the king would take the cowries he had refused this morning, and I suggested that it would be better to go and decide the matter finally before his majesty. He was in the shed, performing his devotions when we got there ; and while we were waiting in the hall by a faint fire of two or three sticks, which gave more smoke than light — a specimen of a Filani lamp — the Galadima performed his devotions also ; it was then about sunset. About ten minutes after, the king returned, and he and the Galadima had a long talk in Filani. He then thanked me for coming and made many frivolous excuses, laying all the blame upon the messengers, who were not willing to go, because they were not first paid. I asked what payment he wanted now ? He said he wanted the sword, but not cowries, and if the cloth we would pay him was good, he would take it. I asked how many horses we were to have? He said, he was sure of his own and the Galadima’s, and that he would try to speak to the owner of the third this evening ; that we might hear the result when we came in the morning. I told him we had spent three days already in talking about going to Wukari, and had been disappointed ; if I were to go to the ship, and tell the gentlemen to make ready for the journey, and the horses could not be procured, or the quality of the cloth for payment were to be disputed, what were we to do ? And meantime, the sun would be as high as it was this morning, which was one of the objections made by the messengers. However, without further bargaining, I told him, I would report what he had said to my Sariki, and he would decide for himself By the time we passed the gate of the fortification, about seven P.M., it was being fastened with sticks piled across the entrance ; so that we had to climb up and jump outside. At this hour, none of the inhabitants were seen outside the town. As we were walking towards the town with the Galadima’s messenger, he showed me the mark to which the fortification was to be removed, about 200 feet in advance of the present : and said the new sticks we saw at the water side were for it. This made me inquisitive as to the need they had to fortify their town? He exclaimed in Haussa, “A/i Wulcari harbi;” i. e.. Ah, Wukari shoot arrows I As I did not wish to lose a single word of what he was going to tell me about Wukari, I called Aliheli to me, that he might hear all perfectly. I asked him to proceed, but he was on his guard ; and said, when the first attack was made upon this place from Hamaruwa, the inhabitants of the towns, whom he called Zuntu and Garba, resisted for ten days before they were conquered, and since that time Zhibu had had four kings — two had died, and the third was too old to do business, and resigned the kingship to Zumbade, the reigning sovereign. In the mean time we entered the town, and the subject was dropped. The people of Gandiko had told us that they had had war with Wukari, and were not able to conquer it, but had remained there since. The chief of that place made the state of enmity between them an excuse for not letting us visit Wukari from their town. The great distance between Zhibu and Wukari keep them one from the other, though there is a neutral market at Zu, where they meet at times for trade and barter. Though they exchange messengers one with another, yet the fact that the space of a whole day’s journey is without inhabitants, show's plainly that their professed friendship is a hollow' one. I returned to the ship and reported the results of my visit to the Doctor ; and the way not being clear for our proceeding to Wukari, the attempt to reach it from this place was given up.

October 7 : Mr. Richards was sent to thank the Galadima, and to tell him, that having lost three days’ already, we could not visit Wukari from Zhibu at this time, as the water was falling. The Galadima was very sorry, and went with him to the king to report the message from Dr. Baikie. Mr. Richards said, the king, as a cunning rogue would do, attempted to charge us with duplicity ; saying, that we had charged him with a breach of faith yesterday morning, but now we had acted the same part. Why did we now refuse to go to Wukari, when he was ready ? Perhaps it was because 30,000 cowries were asked. Truly, he would have been glad to have got the sword, but the king of Wukari would now suspect him of hindering the white men from paying him a visit. In this and many other ways he tried to clear himself from blame.

October 8 : Sunday. Had service at ten A.M., and read the second part of the second “ Homily on the Misery of Man, &c.” All hands rested, and it was the most quiet Sabbath we have enjoyed since entering the Tshadda. After six days” hard labour, the body as well as mind need rest on the seventh. God saw the benefit of it to man, as well the honour he claims to himself in separating that day as his own.

October 9. Having got sufficient fuel to take us to another wooding-place on our way down, at ten A.M. we started from Zhibu. The inhabitants who were busy enlarging their town by removing the fortification, stood gazing at us till we glided out of sight. When the present fortification is finished, Zhibu will be about four miles in circumference. About one r.M., we anchored off Gandiko, when Ama, the chief, immediately sent to salute us, and sent some Guinea corn as a present to Dr. Baikie, and the ship’s company. This we returned by a few yards of calico. The face of the country about Gandiko was entirely changed by the overflowing of the Binue to the very foot of the high ground upon which the town is built.

October 10. Having given the people opportunity to sell what they had, we got under weigh about eight A.M., and made for Anyishi, off which place we anchored about two p.m. Here we had the misfortune of losing our best anchor and cable in seven fathoms of water ; the whole chain having slipped from its fastening. It was a serious loss, as we had now but one anchor and a hedge left, two hedges having been lost before. Agbo, the chief of Anyishi, immediately sent to salute us with a present of two fowls and some eggs ; -and we promised to go on shore and pay him a visit, which we fulfilled after dinner. Anyishi is a small village, situated on a hill rising on the west side of Mount Herbert, and separated from it by a valley. The town is rudely fortified by low mud walls and a ditch, all of which greatly need repairs. The huts, about forty in number, are scattered about upon the hill, and the spaces between them are planted with corn and other vegetables, in a very irregular manner. We met the chief outside the group of his huts, sitting upon buffalo and leopard skins. We at first attempted to communicate with him through Haussa and Djuku interpreters ; but the Djuku interpreters not being expert enough, the chief himself addressed us in the warmth of his heart in the Haussa language. On Dr. Baikie’s mentioning that he was sent to enquire after the welfare of the country, and to sec if there is any prospect of opening trade with them, the chief gave thanks ten times over, for ho could not express himself enough in words to convey the feelings of his heart. When he was told of our various attempts to visit the king of Wukari, and our disappointment, he was very sorry, knowing how very glad the king would have been to see us. He said that his people were much oppressed by the Filanis, and the Berebere of Zaria, and Lafia, who came across two years ago, and drove them away from their old town, Sundube, from whence they took refuge at this place ; that when they lived undisturbed in their homes, they hunted elephants ; that at one time he had plenty of tusks, which he placed in a row in his Imt like sticks, and spread his mat on them for his bed ; that some of them were secured in his flight, others were carried away by the enemy, and the rest were burnt in the hut ; and that they had lost many of their people, wives, and children. He pointed out one man from the five messengers, sent by the chief of Anufo, the neighbouring village, as a person who had been caught by the Filanis of Gandiko, whom they call Katshala, and who had lately effected his escape. He said that it was simply owing to such disturbance from those who were stronger than they, that they had become poor and have nothing. We asked the distance from Anyishi to Wukari, and he gave it as three good days' journey, namely, from Anyishi to Akwona about ten hours ; from thence to Arufu or Afiayi, two neighbouring towns, twelve hours ; from Arufu, or Afiayi, to Wukari, twelve hours. As the chief told us that he had sent to the chiefs of the neighbouring villages, who he hoped would come to see us to-morrow, we postponed leaving a message for the king of Wukari till then. Large lumps of lead ore just landed from a canoe were seen in the town : it was dug at Arufu, one of the halting places to Wukari, where there is a mine, from whence it is conveyed to Keana, in Doma, for sale. Dr. Baikie purchased several large lumps, of from ten to eighteen pounds weight, for specimens.

October 11 : After breakfast we went on shore, to trade, as the canoes could not come alongside on account of the strong current — they had made several attempts, but were in danger of being upset. We took our seat under shady trees, when we were immediately surrounded by a large number of people. Trading was going on, on the one hand, while on the other, I was watching every opportunity of engaging the attention of some one in friendly conversation. Among the people around us, were some respectable-looking men, whom we recognised to be Mitshis, by the peculiar marks on their foreheads. One of them had a pipe which attracted my attention, and which I bargained for, and soon purchased with a razor. I asked where it was made, and was answered in the Mutshi country — for so they call themselves, while their neighbours called them Mitshi. I asked whether any Mitshi people were living in this place, when one of them introduced himself to me as the chief of a Mitshi village not far off, and several other Mitshi people were pointed out among the spectators. I engaged the attention of Njoro, the Mitshi chief, whose town is Iwom, not very far from Anyishi. Njoro spoke Haussa fluently, and as I had no interpreter, I tried to make myself understood as well as I could. When I told him that our Queen had sent this ship to see if the country was at peace, that she might think of opening trade with its people ; he interrupted me by asking, “ What is the name of your king ?” (for Queen) I told him ‘ Victoria,’ which he made several attempts to pronounce after me, and said, “Your king is a true king ; your king is a true king.” When I told him that good people in our country always felt very sorry when they heard that people in this country fight and catch one another for slaves, which thing depopulates the country, and lays the land waste without inhabitants ; he burst out with enthusiastic rapture, shaking me by the hand, and asked for the name of our king again, as he had forgotten it, and said, your king is a true king ; and then with inexpressible emotion he addressed the Mitshi people who were there, in his own language, which of course I did not understand. He said they all belong to the king of Wukari, whom they were sorry we were not able to visit ; that the king would have been very glad to see us, but that all they have heard would be reported throughout the country, which he said was very extensive inland. I wanted to know the boundary between the Mitshi country, and that of Kororofa, but he said, by inserting his ten fingers between each other, that they were thus mixed together as one people — here is a Djuku town, there is a Mitshi village for many days’ journey inland. I asked whether they all speak one language ? when he answered in the negative. The Djuku language is quite different from that of the Mitshis I then requested him to give me the numerals up to twenty in Mitshi, which he did, and I pencilled them down in my note-book, to the astonishment of the bystanders. To cement our friendship, I produced a red cap from my bag, and placed it on Njoro’s head, when all around shouted as a sign of approbation, for the honour done to the Mitshi chief. Here again I must acknowledge the kindness of Lady Buxton, by whom I was furnished with this useful article, as well as many others. Dr. Baikie returned on board, as Mr. May was coming on shore to take some observations, so he gave me a message and present for the chief of Anufo, the neighbouring village, whose messenger had just come to lead us thither. Dr. Hutchinson and myself then started for Anufo. The path lay between hills and valleys on the back of Mount Herbert, very close to which we passed, the soil is rocky and poor on the hills, but black and rich in the valleys, where Guinea corn flourished greatly. Just before we entered the town, we observed a small portion of land sown with beni, a very useful produce for commerce, which might be extensively cultivated here, as might cotton also, if the inhabitants were permitted to be at rest, and a market were opened for the produce of the country. The town of Anufo, situated on a small hill on the east side of Mount Herbert, about two miles from Anyishi, is a neat village, clean and airy, fortified with walls and ditches around it. We were seated under a shady tree, waiting for Mr. May, who, we expected would come after us when he had finished his observations, and had been there about an hour, when Abiki, the chief, sent for us. He was quite a young man, sitting on buffalo and leopard skins under a shady tree outside the group of his huts. After the usual salutation, we took our seat and commenced business. The chiefs Galadima, or next headman, acted for him. The conversation was carried on in Haussa, interpreted into Djuku, although I believe he understood Haussa as well. In the meantime. Dr. Baikie sent me a note by Mr. Dalton, with a message to the king of Wukari, expressing his regret at not being able to visit the king this time, and a hope, if the ship came out again, that he might be able to fulfil his wish next year. This message I delivered, stating the objects of our intended visit under two distinct heads, for the easier digestion of his majesty : first, I said, we wished to know whether he was truly desirous that a treaty of legal trade should be made between him and England : and secondly, whether he would not like, at the same time, that his people should be taught to, learn God’s book, and worship) God as we teach people of other countries ? To both of these questions, the Galadima, and a man from the king of Wukari, who was shortly to return thither, gave separate answers, as conveying the wishes and feelings of their king; but promised that the message would bo faithfully delivered. They hoped God would keep them in safety till the ship returns next year, for they are always in doubt when they have passed one season without molestation, whether another will be as favourable, and said that in all probability we might not meet them n here next year. I encouraged them to look tip to God for protection, and told them, that many good people in our country pray for their preservation, and that war and the slave-trade may cease from the face of the earth. I gave the presents from Dr. Baikie, for which we received a kid in return.

Njoro, my Mitshi friend, had returned from the ship, to which he was taken by Dr. Baikie, and followed us to Anufo. We asked whether horses could be got here, to make the journey to Wukari, should the gentlemen return next year, and wish to do so. Njoro replied, that ten horses could he got, if we wanted as many. He was anxious that Ave should visit his village, hut it was too late, being nearly four o’clock. Since we entered this river, this is the first time we have come direct among the oppressed inhabitants without being immediately under the watchful eye of their Filani oppressors ; hence they were free to lay their griefs open before us, and to desire the friendship of the white men, as the friends and well-wishers of all mankind. Though Anju, the king of Wukari, pays tribute to Bautshi, yet being a Djuku by birth, he sought the protection of his people, and they in return have an affection for him as their lawful sovereign.

At Zhibu and Gandiko all the Djuku people, though under the Filani as slaves, were very anxious for us to Adsit Wukari. They dared not say it openly before their masters, but they were open and free enough when they came on board. The man from whom I collected a few Djuku words to compare them with Koelle’s specimens, whose name is Anju, the same as the king’s, was ready to accompany ns to Wukari if we should determine to make the journey. Zumbade or Bohari, the king of the Zhibu district, Ama the chief of Gandiko, and Garike of Gankera, are all of Djuku race, but have by usage become so amalgamated with the Filanis, by embracing their religion, and to secure their fidelity to the interest of their masters, that they are placed in posts of honour to govern the mixed population of Djuku, and those who are half Filanis by birth, whom they lead out to battle for their own interest, and for the interest of their Sultan. They all go by the name of Filani, but in reality they are not so by birth, but by conquest and adoption of the customs, language, and religion, of the conquerors. We had not seen a real Filani, till we came to the neighbourhood of Hamaruwa. This will be a sufficient explanation of the hollow friendship between the inhabitants of the Zhibu district, and that of Wukari; they are in fact the same people, but the former have become instruments in the hands of the Filanis to oppress their brethren, whose welfare and safety the king of the hitter has at heart. Should another expedition be sent out, and a visit to Wukari be thought desirable, though the way from Anyishi is long, yet if horses can be got, it appears to me to be the best point from which to make the journey, from among the subjects of the king who take interest in the visit. An opportunity would also be given of making accurate observation in the lead mine in Arufu, and the country and people would he better known. Then again, as soon as the people of Gandiko and Zhibu see that another way has been found to Wukari independent of them, they will lay aside their vain and selfish excuses, and the nearest road-way — that from Gandiko is only about seven or eight hours’ journey — will be laid open for future visits. Another inducement to the chiefs of these latter places, will be the advantage of the ship laying off their town for a much longer time, which they would lose by declining to promote such a visit to the interior.

October 12. Steam was got up as soon as possible, and for about an hour and a half, an attempt was made to fish up the anchor and cable, but in vain. It required steam to be kept up in full power to stem the current, which ran four and a half knots between Mount Herbert and Mount Adams, and we were obliged to give the anchor up for lost, and take our departure downward with the stream. In about four hours we made Rogan-koto, a distance which occupied us a day and a half in going up. We anchored off Rogan-koto according to promise, to give the people opportunity of trading, and also that we might get wood for fuel. We paid a visit to Jada, the chief, who was very glad to see us, and earnestly asked after our welfare. He said, that they were very ■ much alarmed about us, because it was rumoured down the river that we had been attacked by the people higher up, and had had a dreadful battle. We told him on the contrary, that we were welcomed in every place we had reached, the great king of distant Hamaruwa not excepted, at which he was not a little surprised. Here we met Onuse, Ojogo’s sister; she was the first to come on board, and give us an affectionate salutation. She told us that Zuri, our messenger, had returned from Keana, and was at Ojogo ; the nature of the communication he brought from the king of Keana she could not tell, but no white man had come with him.

October 13. A great many people came on board to trade in provisions, and various curious articles, and plenty of wood, so necessary for the navigation of the ship, was bought up. How different the people of Rogan-koto from those of Ojogo ! The latter could not be moved to bring a few pieces during the whole of the twelve days we spent with them, whereas the former were all readiness to supply us, men, women, and children, turning out to bring wood ; and all consequently reaped the price of their industry. In the afternoon I walked to the neighbouring newly-built village of Kondoko, which has been removed hither since we went up, the people being driven out of their old village by the rise of the river. On my return from Kondoko, I fell in with two Mitshi men at Rogan-koto, from whom I added a few words to my collection, and gave each of them a handkerchief Among many other things brought on board, was some rough beaten iron in the shape of hoes. As I perceived they could not have been intended for tillage, being entirely different from hoes used for that purpose, and unfit for it, I was inquisitive to know their use. I was told that it is the currency of this part of the country, from Doma to Katshina, at which latter place it appears they are manufactured for trading purposes. Thirtysix of them is the average price of a slave, as one hundred Kantai are in Hamaruwa. This singular currency is called AMlu, in Doma and Kororofa; Ihia, by the Mitshis ; and Agelema, by the Haussas. I have purchased a few specimens which I shall send to England as curiosities.

October 14. Got under weigh at eight A.M., and anchored off Ojogo about nine, to take on board Zuri, who was our messenger to Keana, to enquire after Dr. Barth. The intelligence Zuii brought was, that the two white men, with their two servants, were said to have left Keana for Doma, and from Doma have gone to Toto, and thence to Abazhi, about forty-seven days previous to his arrival. How far this information may he correct, we cannot say; but we may have an opportunity of verifying it at the Confluence by enquiry from those who come down the river from Egga, or the neighbourhood of Rabba. We left Ojogo about twelve A.M., and anchored off Akpoko about three P.M., and landed to visit Magaji, the old chief, who received us with a hearty welcome, and was surprised to hear the distance we had made since we left him. The rumour that we had been attacked, and several of us killed on the upper parts of the river, had also reached Ojogo and Akpoko, and they were all thankful to see us return in safety.

October 15 : Sunday. Got under weigh at six A.M., and anchored off Dagbo about eight o’clock, where we stayed the remainder of the day, intending to wood here to-morrow. But the whole of the farms, with all the houses, were under water ; and the inhabitants had quitted the spot for their old town on the back of the creek, that being now secure against the Filanis, whom the water kept at a distance. Had service at half-past ten, and read the third Homily on the Salvation of Man,” &c.

October 16. Some wood was collected from the water, and cut ready for use. In the afternoon we dro2)ped down below Dagbo, opposite the villages of Eruko, in the Bassa country, to which Dagbo is subject. These villages had been visited and burnt down by the Filanis a few months before, and some of the inhabitants had escaped to the left side of the river, while others fell into the hands of their pursuers. The remnant have returned and rebuilt their houses, and planted their lands ; but one half of the buildings are falling into ruins, because the owners are destroyed. As the king of Bassa had returned from his flight to a small village a short distance from the river, we purposed to pay him a visit the next morning.

October 17 : Started early this morning in company with Dr. Hutchinson, Mr. May, and Mr. Richards, after the rain, on a visit to the king of Ikereku. There had been rain all night till the morning, which made the road clean, and the walk pleasant and agreeable. Two and a-half miles brought us to the two small villages which at present go by the name of Ikereku, the capital, or residence of the king, the old Ikereku being about fifteen miles inland. It is said to have been more populous than Igbebe at the Confluence, and to be at a distance of four days’ journey from Panda, and ten from Doma. Adama the king, is a middle-aged man, whose title is Agabi, the name of their old country Gabi, whence the Bassa people migrated to this part of the country ; hence the title Agabi is taken by all Bassa kings. They were at one time the dread of their neighbours, to whom the Agatus, a tribe of Doma, were once tributary. Ikereku had been twice attacked before by the Filanis, but they were repulsed. But the Agatus, their dependents, were taken away from them at the conquest of Doma, by the Filanis. The late destruction of the Bassa and Panda countries, was brought upon them by Adama himself, according to their own statements. Usha, also called Afo and Ekpe, a part of the Bassas refused to pay tribute to Adama the king, and to punish them, he invited Ama Dogo, a war chief of the Filanis from Zaria, to attack them ; an opportunity which was readily embraced by the latter. After the capture of the Ushas, according to the wishes of the king, Ama Dogo picked a quarrel with Senani the king’s brother, who governed some portion of the Bassa country westward ; and contrary to the king’s wishes, they destroyed Akpatta, the town of Senani, and its dependencies ; and as their avarice knew no bounds, Ikereku itself, the capital of Bassa, shared the same fate ; and thus the country was overrun, till Panda was destroyed also. These particular's being related by the Galadima, the next in influence to the king, at the king’s request, I could not help telling Adaina that it would have been better for him to have lost the tribute of a few of his subjects than to seek their punishment by the hand of their common oppressors, and thus bring so much trouble upon himself, his people, and neighbours ; — that when a thief is employed to carry away a neighbour’s goods, he will naturally seek opportunity to carry away those of his employer also ; and that when an incendiary is engaged to set fire to a neighbour’s house, we are not sure that our own will escape the conflagration. lie felt the force of these parabolical expressions, and said nothing; but his subjects nodded assent to my remarks, and I doubt not, he regretted the foolish steps he had taken. The circumstance of the king of Bassa inviting the Filanis to destroy Usha, which was the cause of the misfortune of Panda, explains the complaint of the Igbira or Panda people, that the Bassas had called the Filanis to destroy their country. Mr. May delivered the present from Dr. Baikie to the king, for which he gave a goat in return, and pleaded poverty.

We returned to the ship about ten A.M., and immediately steam was ordered to be got up. At twelve A.M., we weighed for Abatsho ; the place to which a remnant from Panda had made their escape about eight months ago, according to their own reckoning. We arrived there in about two hours, \54> and landed to visit Maliarama the chief, who we heard was out of health. Besides the village on the water-side, there was another about a mile inland where the chief resided, to which a most pleasant walk through beautiful plantations of Guinea corn led us. The extent to which the plantations had grown in so short a time, told the industrious': habits of the Igbira or Panda people. It is very much to be regretted, that such a people who are ready to turn everything to account, and who, if called upon to raise produce for foreign markets, would turn their whole attention to supply it, should he at the mercy of those who will not labour with their own hands, and are bent on enslaving those who do. Although the chief was not well, and rose from his mat until great pain, yet he did so to offer us his bed for a seat, and shook us heartily by the hand with inexpressible joy at our safe return — for news had reached this place also, that we had had a fearful battle with Pilani warriors, and that there was great loss on both sides. He and his people were glad to hear that the reverse was the truth. He offered us eatables, and Guinea corn, beer to drink, and yams for a present. Since we have come among the Bassas and Igbiras, though they are oppressed, and driven to and fro by the Filanis, we may truly say we are among friends, and in the land of plenty. The country on the back of the river where Abatsho is situated, is dry ; and the soil contains some clay with which some of the huts are built. Some parcels of cotton were purchased by Dr. Baikie and Dr. Hutchinson for specimens, from the industrious women who employ their time in picking out the seeds, and spinning the wool into thread, to be sold to native weavers.

October 18 : Started early this morning, and about eight A.M., anchored off Amaran, on the left side of the river, near Mount Pleasant. This village was not visited on our ascent. It also is inhabited by refugees from Panda. A regular market is kept here every five days, and to-day being the market, we met a large concourse of people, both from the Confluence and upper parts of the Tshadda. The arrival of the ‘Pleiad,’ of course, interrupted their market, and in a short time the ship was full of people. Here we learnt, with no small joy, that Mr, Crawford and his party were well, in the canoe at the Confluence. Aba, the chief, immediately came on board, and he and Dr. Baikie exchanged presents. We landed, and purchased wood, of which they had plenty, and many curiosities, which no doubt gave a profitable return to their owners. The busy scene before us was indescribably amusing. After about two hours spent here, we weighed and visited the village of Oketta, on the right side a few miles below: here we met the sister of Oyigu, the late king of Panda, who was killed by the Filanis. The island on which the people of Oketta had taken refuge on our going up was completely overflowed, and the huts thrown down or washed away. Their old villages, on a long strip of bank between the river and a swamp, presented one complete scene of ruin and desolation ; yet within the ruins the weaver was quietly pursuing his occupation, and the platter of mats his work. As the Filanis still hang about the country, it appears the ruins will be deserted altogether, and the inhabitants join their neighbours at Amaran, near Mount Pleasant. The poor old chief gave us some beer for a present. Starting from Oketta, we dropped anchor for a short time at Kende, where we made some stay at our ascent ; a short visit was paid them, and we then weighed for yimmaha, where we dropped anchor about three P,M. The island on which the people had taken refuge when we passed in August, was almost entirely covered, and they had returned to their town ; the high grass and swollen waters not being favorable to the expeditions of the Filanis ; the inhabitants thus enjoying a temporary security from these natural defences. The once deserted shore of Yimmaha, where but four or five timid men were watching the movements of the Filanis, was to-day, lined by an immense crowd of men, women, and children. The hearty welcome with which we were received, could hardly be exceeded by that of our most intimate friends in a civilized country. We visited Ogara, the brother of the late unfortunate king of Panda, who is now elected in his room, and is at present residing at Yimmaha. Rumour had also disturbed this place from Rogankoto, AAdth news of our fabled battle with the Filanis, at which they were not a little concerned. The statement of Ogara, the king of Panda corroborated that of Adama, the king of Bassa, respecting the invitation of the Filanis by Adama, to destroy Usha, which brought desolation upon them all. He said, the Filanis were now at war with Toto, that many of his people had only returned from that place yesterday, who went to ransom their children and relatives, and that some of the captives had effected their escape at the same time. As they had some ivory, the king requested us to return on hoard, that the people might sell it off.

October 19 ; After breakfast we paid a visit to the king, and entered more circumstantially into the affair of the destruction of Panda, and the state of things between him and the Filanis at present. He confirmed the statement that Panda was destroyed by treachery, and said, that Oyigu, the king, had entertained them as strangers or traders who had come to his country, but when a sufficient force had got into the town, in the morning they commenced catching the people and plundering the houses. Three of the elders who had been caught, hut have since been ransomed, and who were sitting by Ogara, were pointed out to us. Madaki, an elder war chief, who owned some horses, was dreadfully wounded in several places, in the act of defending them, and three large gashes now on his hand and back must have been severe. Oyigu, the chief, was killed, and the inhabitants taken prisoners before they were aware that any hostility was intended against them ; hence, all the dependent towns and villages were deserted, and the people fled for refuge to the island in the Tshadda, and to the other side of the river. Am a Dogo, the Filani war chief, offered the condition of paying one hundred slaves as an annual tribute ; and the king said he feigned compliance with these terms, till he had recovered as many of his people from them as they were able to ransom ; and that he would never go to Panda again, but when the dry season comes will remove to the other side of the river, and only inhabit Yimmaha in the rainy season, when it is difficult for the Filanis to get at them. He said, if they complied and paid one hundred slaves one year, in the next they would require two hundred, and where were they to get them ? and that they detested war, trade being their chief employment. I asked him whether, in case trade should be established with this country, he would like his people to be taught God’s book, and how to worship God as we do in the white man’s country; for it was these two things together, which made England great, and that they would bring peace and prosperity to any country who received and embraced them. I told him that the same thing was proposed to the chiefs of Aboh, to the Atta of Igara, their sovereign, and to Mohamma, king of Hamaruwa, respecting the Baibai or Djuku people, and that they were all willing to trade, and that their people should be taught God’s book : I wanted, therefore, to know what he would say to it also. He replied that trade was their chief employment, and that he was very desirous that war should cease, that his people might trade, and be taught God’s book : he wished us many blessings and long life from the God whom we worship. He said that he was a trader himself, and had been to Hamaruwa, and that Mohamma, the present sultan, was his friend ; he had been to Zhibu, and knew Bohari, the king, of whom he had a very low opinion, but spoke very highly of the Galadima, whose name he told us was Zumade, and that he was a worthy character. We confirmed his testimony from personal knowledge and experience. Dr. Baikie asked what portion of the captives was now in the hands of the Filanis ; he said, by far the larger portion, and that as long as the army kept together, and there was any prospect of the captives being ransomed by their relatives, the Filanis would not sell them to others ; but that would not be the case when the army dispersed, and carried their captives to their different homes. Dr. Baikie enquired as to What might be the price they paid for the ransom of each of their people ; he replied, 80,000 cowries, whereupon the Doctor offered the king that amount to assist him in the ransom of one person, for which the king did not know how to express gratitude enough in words. He remembered Mr. Laird’s visit to Panda, and asked whether he was still alive, when he was told that the same gentleman sent this ship to the river again. Having taken leave of the king, and got under weigh, about one P.M., we anchored, and visited the village of Ogba, on the top of Frcnchwood cliff, which had been also deserted, but is now reinhabited. We landed, and climbed up the cliff Kpanaki, the chief, was not at home, but we saw his sister, a woman of some consequence, who is head of the village. As her brother, Kpanald, was living in the village Okpangana, on the opposite side of the river, a messenger was sent to inform him of our arrival, and he returned with the chief’s brother, with a message, that he regretted that he was not able to come to the ship, because one of his wives died last night. Some presents were sent to him by Dr. Baikie, with words of sympathy : and after about an hour’s stay, we started from this place for the Confluence, and reached the east point of Duck Island about half-past six P.M., when the water began to shoal to two and a-half fathoms. Fearing we might run a-ground, or upon rocks now under water at the juncture, we dropped anchor for the night.