Entrance of the Tshadda

August 7 : Having laid in a sufficient stock of green wood, we got under weigh about eight A.M., under green wood steam. The channel was very intricate : — after a long zigzag passage at the mouth of the Tshadda we got into four and five fathoms water, with very slow progress, and hardly made eight miles direct from the Confluence, because the steam could scarcely be kept up for an hour together, and the anchor had then to be dropped while it was got up again.

August 8 : About eight A.M. we weighed anchor, but in about a quarter of an hour the steam failed, and we were obliged to drop it again. It was impossible to accomplish our object at this rate, two days having been wasted merely for want of proper fuel to keep up the steam ; and if the Krumen were sent on shore to cut wood again, it would be as* green as before. Dr. Baikie, therefore, myself, and Mr. Richards, landed at a small village called Atipo, a little way higher up, where we saw plenty of dry wood in the town ; we told the natives to take it to the water-side, and returned to the ship to tell Captain Taylor of our discovery, and to know if he would purchase it. One of the iron canoes was soon paddled thither, and in about three hours she returned deeply laden with dry and substantial firewood, which we hoped would enable us to move onward in our voyage. Several enquiries were made to-day of Dr. Barth, but no news was heard of him. In the evening a canoe came alongside from Ama-Abokko with seven persons, two of them being headmen ; one of the headmen, Zuri, spoke several languages, and was a native of a town on the bank of the Tshadda, which pays tribute to Panda, and also to Wukari. This man will, we hope, be of great use to us as we ascend the Tshadda. We had thought that Aina-Abokko was not faithful to Ids promise, but we were wrong ; and his sending his own canoe to overtake us after two days” sail from the Confluence, against a strong current, corrected our erroneous surmises as to his sincerity, because he was not able to fulfil his promise at the moment we looked for it. The native chiefs always take more time to think and arrange their plans and settle their affairs than we are aware of We are very thankful to have these men with us, speaking Igara, and Igbira, or Panda, they being natives of the banks of the Tshadda, and as Zuri can speak Haussa, we hope to be able to collect much information.

August 9 : Got under’ weigh about half-past eight A.M., and anchored abreast Little Harriet Island at six P.M., the steam having been kept up sharp and brisk under a mixture of dry and green wood. The Tshadda presents in appearance the same expansive sheet of water, as did the streams of the Kowara and Tshadda united, and contains a good depth of water, and has been of easy navigation hitherto. The chief on the right bank of the river, on which the village Ogba is situated, is covered with luxuriant jungle, called Frenchwood in Allen’s chart of this river. The name of the inhabitants on both sides of the river is Igbira, to whom the land of Panda belongs. The Atta, many years back, sent one of his sons to reside at Panda, which was tributary to the king, and this son ultimately became its sovereign. The boundary of Panda, in other words, of the Igbira country, is between Oketta and Abatu, the latter being the first village belonging to the Bassa country near the river side. Here we began to meet recent traces of the Filata depredations ; the inhabitants of Ogba, on Frenchwood cliff, were obliged to take refuge on Harriet Island, on account of the Filatas, fearing lest, after the capture of P anda, they might attack them also.

August 10 : Started about eight A.M., and arrived at Yimaha, on the right side, about noon, where we dropped anchor to get wood. Here again the inhabitants have been obliged to quit their town, and to take refuge on the opposite island, where they have built temporary sheds to escape the depredations of the Filatas ; who, not content with the destruction of Panda, and molestation of Toto, covet the poor and defenceless inhabitants of Ogba and Yimaha in their avarice. We landed on the newly inhabited island, in which there must have been a thousand people. We were led to the quarter of Ozineku, their chief, a very aged man, seventy years old, if not more. We told him the object of our visit, and made enquiry after Dr. Barth, but no intelligence could be gained. Dr. Baikie told the chief to send messengers on board, that he might give him some presents. Leaving the island, Ave landed on the right side at the town of Yimaha, which was deserted three months ago. Here we met a few men who were keeping a look out for the enemy, and at the same time were occupied in the process of dyeing their cloth blue ; an art, which is professed by men in this part of the country instead of women, as in the Yoruba country. Upon landing we saw recent traces of the Filatas ; only last night, a horseman and six foot soldiers were sent to see if the inhabitants of Yimaha could be easily taken away. The spies finding the town deserted, went through it, even to the water’s edge, where they stopped some time — quite recent traces of their horses being visible. One can better feel than express in words the distressed state of these poor people, who are continually harassed and hunted by the Filatas, the greatest pests of this part of the country. They will not work themselves, and those who will they disturb and seek to enslave, eating up at the same time the fruits of their industry. The hunters of elephants and collectors of ivory, are either killed in their attempt to defend their country and families, or are prevented through fear from going about their lawful occupation ; and thus not only is the country disturbed, but the European markets are left unsupplied. The men led us to the house of the chief, and told us that the gentlemen of the former Expedition resided there. We presumed that Messrs. Lander, Laird, Oldfield, and Allen, were meant, who were here in 1832 — 34. While wood was being bought, some tusks were purchased also. We weighed about half-past four, and anchored above Potinkia (Potingia) creek for the night.

August n ; Got under weigh about half-past eight A.M. Before noon we were in shallow water, and grounded off a small village, called Kende, on the left side, but the vessel was got off again after a little exertion : a part of the engine, however, called the donkey, was damaged, so that we could make no further progress for the day. In the afternoon we landed at Kende, where some of the few who escaped seizure by the Filatas at Panda have taken refuge. Here again is a picture of the misery these poor people are doomed to go through ; for they live destitute of every thing, having escaped with scarcely any thing but their liberty, and that with difficulty. The Filatas, whose aim is not so much to kill as to seize and enslave, took Panda by treachery. They professed friendship, and entered the town on that pretence, and the king presented them with bullocks and other necessaries ; but when a sufficient number had got in, they commenced seizing the inhabitants, and scarcely gave them time to make resistance. Only the king, Oyigu, and a few persons about him made any effort to repel them ; but the king could not long stand against his enemies, and was killed in the attempt. A great number were caught, and very few were so fortunate as to 6scape. The neighbouring towns and villages were immediately deserted by the inhabitants, who took refuge on the left side of the river, where we met with a son of the chief of Potinkia (Potingia), who remembered having seen the white men on their visit to this river many years ago. We find the usefulness of having Abokko’s men with us ; the people would not come near us, until these men had told them who we were, and assured them that they would not be hurt. They then took confidence and came on board.

August 12 ; After breakfast I went to the beach with Dr. Baikie and Mr. May, to receive a lesson from the latter in taking observations. Captain Pl otter was kind enough to send me a quadrant by the “ Forerunner ” for the purpose, and I hope it may be of use to me hereafter. In the afternoon we went to the village and distributed a few cowries among the poor inhabitants, who were very glad to receive them ; a few yards of unbleached calico would have proved a great boon to them, if I had had any to distribute among them. Dr. Baikie amused the children by strewing some cowries, for which they scrambled.

August 13 : Sunday. Preached from 2 Tim. i. 7., the latter part of last week’s text. May the Spirit of God apply the word to each and all our hearts.

August 14: Got under weigh after breakfast D There continues to be a good depth of water, though the channel is at times intricate. The villages which we passed to-day are called Iyanpe on the right side, and Irigi further inland, and others, not seen, are called Betikia and Lesebu. Three villages are known by the name of Oketta on the right side, but the inhabitants have taken refuge on an island opposite for fear of the Filatas. A little while afterwards we came opposite the neat village of Amaran, on the left side, situated on the east side of the foot of Mount Pleasant, very appropriately so named. The village of Amaran could not have been there when Mount Pleasant was named, or it would have been noticed. We anchored abreast of Bay Island for the night.

August 15 : This morning we spied a few natives in a small opening in the bush on the right side. They were armed with bows and arrows, in readiness to repel aggression. Ama-Abokko’s messenger called to them, as they were within hearing, to persuade them to come off, but they would not ; he said they were Bassa people, whom he called Kaferi — wicked archers, who had hired the Filatas to destroy Panda, and are, therefore, held in great hatred by the Igbira and Panda people, to whose king they were tributary. This marauding tribe have destroyed towns and villages in Panda, and even to the westward of Panda, beyond the confines of their own district, which lies to the eastward of Panda.

The Bassa language is very much like the Nupe, with some little variation and peculiarity, as may be seen in Mr. Koelle’s “ Polyglotta Afficana.” * The • “ Polyglotta Africana ; or, a comparative Vocabulary in village of these Bassas, abreast Bay Island, on the right side, is called Abatu, but it is not visible from the river. Here is said to be the beginning of the Bassa country. Three or four miles from our anchorage brought us to the village of Abatsho, on the left side of the river; here we anchored, and invited the natives on board. Three chiefs came off, whom we found to be Irobo, Itshigbasa, and Allagaba — the two former were sons of the late old king of Panda, Abuha, who was visited by Mr. Laird ; — Allagaba was the chief of Potinkia. They were all taking refuge here on account of the destruction of Panda. Abuha was succeeded by his brother, Adekke, who reigned thirteen years, when Oyigu, who was lately killed by the Filatas, became king. Irobo has now taken the headship of the village of Abatsho. Enquiry was made of Dr. Barth, but nothing was heard of him ; but they told us that in all probability we might hear of him in Akpoko, a village near the river, in the country of Doma, where Haussa people come to trade from the interior. Presents were given to these poor chiefs who were very glad to receive them. I encouraged them to hope for better days, and said that though the Filatas, their near neighbours, prove to be their enemies, yet God will raise them kind friends and well wishers in white men from a far country. A Haussa woman, named Asatu, came on board, and was recognised by Mr. Richards as one of the traders who used to be employed by ]\Ir.

more than one hundred distinct African Languages,” by the Rev. S. W. Koelle, Missionary of the Church Missionary Society. London, 1854.

Beecroft, and who used to receive goods in large quantities at the Confluence, to sell for shea butter and ivory, when Mr. Beecroft ascended the river. She was very glad to see a steamer up the river again. Dr. Baikie gave her a looking-glass. We weighed from Abatsho, and anchored a few miles higher up.

August 16 : Got under weigh as soon as steam was up. The passage continued intricate ; we had nearly reached Oruko, when we fell into shoal water and were obliged to drop astern to clear out of it, and anchored till the channel could be found. Afterwards, several attempts were made to proceed, but without success. The Bassa people, who had been driven from their towns by the Filatas, have taken refuge on the island, and on the left side of the river. They were exceedingly timid, and no wonder the sight of so large a body as the steamer on their waters was enough to frighten them, as they have already been placed in continual fear by the Filatas, the enemies of all.

August 17 : After nine A.M., Captain Taylor, accompanied by Dr. Hutchinson, and Mr. Guthrie, the chief engineer, went to sound the river, and did not return till the evening. The captain declared it was impossible for the vessel to proceed further. On this Dr. Baikie, wishing to persevere in the attempt, took entire charge of the ship. It would have been a great pity not to have gone further, as we had come thus far, and were still eight or ten miles below Dagbo, the furthest point reached by Oldfield and Allen; so that the new 5li ground to be explored by this Expedition would only commence from that place. The health of all in the Expedition having been so mercifully preserved hitherto, every one felt a desire to go onward as far as practicable.

August 18 : Dr. Baikie having now charge of the ship, ordered the steam to be got up, and about seven A.M., we were under weigh, having sent Mr. Richards previously to sound the channel. About ten A.M., we passed the most intricate part of the river, opposite the town Oruko, whose chief Adama, is said to be king of all the Bassa country. He sent one of his sons with a goat to Dr. Baikie for a present, and wished the vessel to stop and trade with him ; but said that he had only ten tusks of ivory to sell, the Filatas having wasted all his property at the destruction of the country. Dr. Baikie sent him a message to wait till our return, when we hoped to pay him a visit, and trade with him also. Some presents were sent to him by his son, with the message, that he should warn all his subjects never to molest any white man's boat or canoe that may be passing up and down at any time through his waters. This message was necessary, because the Bassa people are much dreaded by native traders, on account of their thievish j)propensities. About noon, we anchored off Dagbo, the termination of Oldfield’s and Allen’s exploration in 18.32 — 34, where we remained and wooded during the evening. The old town, Dagbo, appears to have been deserted, and the inhabitants have removed close to the river, to a piece of land nearly surrounded by a creek, which affords them good security against the ravages of the Filatas. Dagho appears to be the beginning of the Doma district and language. The scattered groups of huts which form the village present more the appearance of farmhouses than anything else. A great extent of land has been cleared, and planted with Indian and Guinea corn for the people's sustenance. They axe very poor, and consequently had nothing to trade with.

August 19 : ]\Ir. Richards was sent early this morning to sound the channel, and as soon as steam was up, we got under weigh and followed. After much perseverance we cleared the intricate channels, and got into a fine sheet of deep water extending to a considerable distance, when we came again amongst groups of islands, which occasioned frequent shoals. We passed the villages of Egy and Igei*e, on the right side, Agatu on the left, and Joko, on an island. These people are called Kafeii, or “ wicked archers,” from their disturbance of the water passage. About four P.M., we anchored off Akpoko, a very small village in the valley of the Doma hills. The ship touched the ground several times, but was always got off by backing the engine, or by the men going aft and dancing her off. As soon as the ship came to anchor’, Drs. Baikie and Hutchinson, Mr. Dalton and myself went on shore. The town is accessible through a fine open creek at the foot of the hills, though invisible from the anchorage. The people at first showed some timidity, having never seen white men before ; but when Zuri spoke the Igbira and Haussa languages to them, they became confident. Many of the people understood Igbira as well as Haussa. On landing, we were led into the chief’s house, where we stood outside for a few minutes, till he came and invited us in. He was an old man of small stature, hut respectable appearance. He was dressed with a decent country cloth around his waist, and wore a country shirt of patchwork pattern, of blue and white, cut in triangles, of native manufacture and workmanship, except the fringe on the borders, which was cut out of red woollen cloth of European manufacture. He had a red Turkey cap on his head. Mats having been spread for us, after the usual salutation and customary compliments from Zuri and Mahamma, our interpreters, they delivered the message of Ama-Abokko and introduced us to the chief. Dr. Baikie told him the object of our visit, and made enquiry after Dr. Barth, of whom we expected to hear news in this place. But no intelligence of any European traveller has reached this country. Magaji, the chief, acknowledged that Doma is subject to Bello of Sokoto ; but, as governor of the water-side, he would acknowledge no superior, and said that every chief rules his own district, of which there are many in Doma. He answered questions respecting the government of the country with much reserve, especially respecting the Filatas ; which shows, I think, that if it wore possible, they would eagerly throw off the Filatas’ yoke. We wanted to know the distance of Wukari, but received no satisfactory reply.

No sooner was the subject of trade introduced, than six tusks were immediately produced, and Magaji was very anxious for the ship to wait till to-morrow, when he promised that plenty more should be brought. But as Dr. Baikie had determined to start early to-morrow, so much time having been already lost, they were requested to send on board what they had in hand. Nine or ten tusks were brought and purchased that evening. The chief is saluted by kneeling on the ground, the forehead is inclined, and two fingers of both hands are rubbed in the dust, and dust rubbed on the forehead several times. The people salute owe another by embracing, the right hand of the one being stretched parallel with the left of the other as far as the shoulders, or with both arras occasionally. The religion of the place is Paganism, for there were some fetishes under the trees, in front of the chief's house. The village comprises no more than forty conical huts, including the granary; and yet it is fortified with a ditch about twelve feet deep, and mud walls. The gate is entered by a drawbridge of three poles laid across, and is rather dangerous for passengers.

August 20 : Sunday. Got under weigh at six A.M., the river much improved, there being fewer islands. Before ten, the vessel touched immediately after sounding the great depth of seven fathoms ; she was hove off by backing the engine, together with the exertions of the men walking aft and dancing. We anchored, and had service at half-past ten. From constant excitement in entering an unexplored country, and other causes, which occupied much of my time, I could not complete my sermon : I therefore read the first and second parts of the nineteenth Homily on Prayer, the subject I had taken in hand for the week. The most disagreeable effect of sailing on Sunday is, that it keeps the Krumen continually at work, cutting and splitting wood for fuel from morning till evening, together with frequent touching in shoal water, when all hands must run aft to dance the ship afloat. This interferes much with the sacredness of the day. When I thought how mercifully we had been preserved since our entering the river, now five weeks, no European having been laid up for a week, I could not free my mind from the apprehension of our incurring God’s displeasure by distrusting Ilis providence, in thus desecrating His holy day, in order to accomplish our objects, how noble soever they might be. In the afternoon, we got under weigh and passed the villages of Otia on the right side, and Aghadumo on the left, and Ayati and Zuwo on the right. At the approach of the steamer, the inhabitants of Zuwo quitted their village, and no trace of human beings could be seen, except the goats and fowls which they had left behind them.

August 21 : Got under weigh about six A.M. After touching several times in shoal water, about two P.M. the ship ran aground ; but with much exertion she was got afloat and anchored for the night. The country appears very thinly populated hereabouts. If this appearance arose from the fear of building too near the banks, because the river overflows them every year, we should have seen, at least, landing places as we passed along, but there was a total absence of such. The villages actually seen were very few, compared with those on the lower parts of the Niger, or the Kowara branch. The country, for the most part, is open, though at times wooded, and occasionally clusters of fine lofty palm-trees occur, which show, by the old branches or leaves hanging down from the head of the trees, that the natives do not trouble themselves to gather the nuts for their use. Scarcely any trace of cultivation was seen along the banks, to relieve the eye. In the night we had a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning, which cooled the atmosphere, for the sun had been oppressively hot of late, and the river had fallen considerably. We had had no rain, till last night, since we left Idda three weeks ago.

August 22 : Got under weigh about six A.JI., and after many slight touchings and heaving off by backing the engine, at 12 A.M. we ran into shoal water, and grounded about a mile or so below the village Ojogo, to which we had been looking forward as a place to anchor at, and get wood for fuel. With great efforts the ship was got afloat by half-past six P.M., but could not clear the shoal that evening. It was with much persuasion from Zuri, our interpreter, that the natives were induced to come on board ; two or three canoes afterwards brought some wood and fowls, which were purchased from them. Their canoes are very small, and are propelled by large long paddles, in a standing posture. We made enquiry of Dr. Barth, but obtained no intelligence.

August 23 : Early this morning the chief of Ojogo sent messengers to enquire after our health and to show us the channel ; but as they had no idea of the draft of our ship, their offer was not accepted. While the steam was being got up, Mr. Richards was sent to sound the channel ; and on his return about eight A.M., he brought the welcome tidings, that on his making enquiry, he was told that two white men were not far from this neighbourhood, in a town called Keana, about four days’ journey to the northward. I need not mention that every one on board was much rejoiced by this intelligence. We got under weigh, and after much trouble, the ship cleared the shallow bank, where we had been actually locked in. In a short time afterwards we anchored off the village Ojogo, situated on the point of an island, on the right side, formed by a creek which separates it from the main land. We immediately sent messengers to inform the chief of our arrival, and that we would pay him a visit soon. On the return of the messengers, we mi.de ready for the village, but a great many of the inhabitants, and especially the females and young persons, were terrified, and fled from the village into the bush among the palm-trees. The men were armed with bows and poisoned arrows, and some with long spears : the latter formed an escort to lead us from the beach to the village where we met the chief sitting almost alone, under a large tree, which afforded an agreeable shade, outside the group of huts which formed his residence. After salutation by shaking of hands. Dr. Baikie introduced the subject of our visit, and expressed his wish to send immediately to the white men, who, we heard, were at Keana. Our previous knowledge of the case gave no room to the chief to plead Ignorance, and he promised at once to confer with his headmen, and let us know, when we had returned on hoard, about sending messengers. In the mean time we had the man on board who had informed Mr. Richards of the travellers being at Keana. He confirmed his statement, that they had arrived there one month before he left Keana, and that he had seen them eight days ago, and offered to go with the messengers if he were sent ; he himself being a native of Keana, where his father is living, but his mother resides here at Ojogo. We gave him some presents, and held out hopes of his getting more if he would go with the messengers, and bring our friends down. The pictures of the four travellers were shown to him, from the frontispiece of Petermann’s Atlas of Central Africa. He looked for awhile, and pointed to that of Dr. Barth, which he said was like him in countenance, but he missed his beard and whiskers, like those of !Mr. Richardson ; he pointed to the picture of Vogel as his companion. From these and other testimonies, we concluded that the information was likely to be true.* As the chief’s messenger was not forthcoming, we sent to him again in the evening, to express our disappointment. The messengers returned, and said, as he was the chief of the water side, he wanted to catch some fish first, to send to the chief of Keana, who was his superior, and who would be displeased * It will be seen, however, from the sequel, that the informant was misunderstood.

if such a present were not sent to him. To-morrow morning, Dr. Baikie and myself intend to go on shore and to push the matter forward. In the night we had a heavy tornado and rain ; — the river may now be expected to rise.

August 24 : Early this morning we went to visit Amishi, the chief, about sending the messengers to Keana without delay. We succeeded in putting aside the plan of catching and sending fish to the chief, by promising to supply the messengers with presents to him. That arrangements might be made for their immediate departure, some one or other of us would have started at once with the messengers, had horses been obtainable, and if our appearance in the intermediate towns would not have caused delay, instead of hastening the matter ; for native messengers can go without much notice, and can make a harder push than any of us can do. After breakfast, Amishi, otherwise called Ojogo, which is his public title, came on board, and was shown over the ship and into the saloon, at which he was struck with great wonder ; about noon, he returned on shore to despatch the messengers, who were waiting to go to Keana. After the bustle of sending the messengers away was over, I collected some words in the Doma language from Onuse, the chief s sister ; and in return for her services she received one of the glass saucers, which were kindly sent me by Lady Buxton, with which she thought she was amply remunerated.

August 25 : There is a tribe on the south bank called Mitshi. They have been represented all along as a wild people and wicked archers, and are called Kaferi, even by their heathen neighbours. They came once to Ojogo to sell provisions, but the chief would not allow them to visit him, because they are so much addicted to theft. Early this morning a messenger was sent to Ojogo, to inform him of our intention to visit the Mitshis, and to ' purchase from them yams and a bullock, as we have been told they have plenty ; — to-day being the market-day between them and the people here. The chief appointed Onuse, his sister, to go and transact the business for us ; but when she came on board and found that we had made ready to go, she was afraid, and returned immediately on shore in her own canoe, paddled by females as well as males — for both are equally good sailor’s. Thinking she would follow us, we started for the Mitshi market, about one mile distant below Ojogo, several Ojogo canoes having already gone before us. On our approach, we heard a great noise and clamour in the market, which is held in canoes on the water-side, and when we came near, all the Ojogo canoes had dispersed in different directions, and everything was in great confusion : some of the women were crying, for the Mitshis had plundered their property, and a strong party had armed themselves with bows and poisoned arrows to oppose our landing. We were but a few yards from them, but could not speak directly with them ; besides which, there was such uproar and excitement, that it was impossible to gain their attention. They at times beckoned to us in defiance to land, and armed people were stationed along the bank to oppose our doing so.

There was not a single weapon in our boat. Dr. Baikie held out some handkerchiefs as an inducement, but the very sight of them seemed to enrage them. At last, an old grey-bearded man, who seemed to be the chief, with great passion and significant motion of both hands wished us away. As there was no alternative, we returned to the ship, and then went to inform the Ojogo of the conduct of the Mitshis. He had just ordered a canoe, at the report of his sister’, to call us back. He said, if the Mitshis, over whom he had no control, should do any mischief to our person or property, the blame would be laid to him. Then we were told that the Mitshis were cannibals, and that they devour the bodies of their enemies killed in war. But I am inclined to believe that this act of savageness is only ])practised in time of war, to terrify their enemies, and is not an habitual thing. When the Ijebus invaded Abbeokuta some years ago, and were defeated, some bodies of the Ijcbu slain, were cut in pieces by the Egbas, and boiled in large pots, that the Ijebus might have the greater dread of the Egbas. Ikumi, the chief of Ijaye, performed a like barbarous act when one of his wives was ])ut to death, either for revenge, or to terrify others from committing themselves in like manner. Before we leave the river, we may leam the certainty of the Mitshis being practically cannibals, or otherwise.

It appears from the information we could collect, that the Mitshis were originally slaves of the Filatas and other tribes in the Haussa country, and that they made their escape from their masters, and settled on the south side of the river, where they have been subsequently joined by a great number of runaway slaves ; and have thus become formidable to their neighbours. In this way they maintain their independence, and are always suspicious of strangers going among them. They look wild but timid ; carrying always their poisoned arrows about them, which they are ready to discharge upon the least provocation. Their villages, which are independent of each other, spread over a great part of the south side of the Tshadda towards the Akpoto country. They have a language of their own, and seem to acknowledge no superior above the headman of each village. These villagers sometimes fall out among themselves, or village against village, and shoot one another with poisoned arrows. The fact of their possessing a large number of cattle seems to favour the report of their having been at one time connected with the Filatas, as slaves, whose cattle they probably used to tend ; and since they have gained their liberty, they pursue the same occupation for their own advantage. Their being prohibited from visiting the ship may be the cause of provocation, which they retaliated this morning in the market upon the Ojogo traders.

From Idda to the Confluence, all the land on the left side of the river, and from the Confluence to this place, is called Akpoto land, and bears the same name at Igara. The Igbiras, Bassas, Agatus, (a tribe of Doma) and also the Mitshis, who are found in the immediate vicinity of the south fide of the Tshadda have all come from the north side, either as refugees or settlers ; and are not the original proprietors of that part of the country, as they themselves confess. Even the Atta of Igara himself appears to be a settler or colonist in Akpoto land, as may be collected from the following tradition among the Igaras : — As I was comparing Igara words with Yoruba, I asked Mahamma, Ama-Abokko’s messenger, whether he could not give me some account of the similarity between some Igara words and phrases and those of the Yoruba — for the affinity appeared to be greater than between any other languages hereabouts. Upon this he related the following tradition ; — In old time, the king of Yoruba made a journey to Rabba, when he desired the Atta to look out for a suitable locality for his future settlement. The Atta accordingly took a canoe and dropped down the river till he came to Idda, which was the original name of the town. There he met the inhabitants who were called Akpoto, and their headman Igara, from whom he begged for a place to settle in, which was granted. Atta returned, and reported his success to the king of Yoruba, who a.asked the Atta, if he thought he would be secure and nobody could trouble him. The Atta answered, that he should be secure. Hence, the Atta separated and formed a district for himself ; and being more influential than the Akpotos, they gave him the precedence. In course of time the language of the settlers gradually disappeared before that of the Akpotos; or rather the settlers appear to have adopted the latter as a medium of communication between them, and incorporated it with their own. The true meaning of Atta, is father or patriarch, hut his right title as Idng is Onu, which is the same as Olu of Yoruha, and means king, or governor of a province.

August 26. Nothing of importance occurred during the day ; the little wood the people had was purchased, and the Krumen were sent to cut more in the hush. The wants of this people are so few, that they are content to sit down the whole day smoking their pipes, instead of going to cut wood to sell, although they are very desirous of getting many things hy begging.

August 27 : Sunday. Plad service at half-past ten as usual, and read the third part of the nineteenth Homily on Prayer. Having been informed that the people were running away from the village of Ojogo, we went on shore after service to ascertain the cause and quiet their fears. During two previous nights. Dr. Baikie and Mr. May had been on shore to take lunar observations, and of course had lights with them. The bull’s-eye lamp seems to have made them afraid. The chief was previously apprehensive of something when he saw Mr, !May measuring the beach, and thought that he did this because the white men had it in mind to take his country from him. When we got on shore, we desired an interview with him. His heart was throbbing with fear ; but I tried to explain to him, how from ignorance of the depth of the river, our ship was grounded very near his village, where we remained a part of two days ; that Mr. May’s measuring the beach was to ascertain the breadth of the river, and how much it has risen since we have been here : that their looking at the moon and stars in the night, was to ascertain how far we were from our country : that he himself must have taken notice that the moon does not remain stationary, but rises higher every day : so by looking at either the moon and stars, we also know how far we are from home : that God has commanded us to do good to all men, and never to do evil, for if we do them harm, God will not be pleased with us. With this explanation both he and his people appeared satisfied. I asked him, if there were any thing of which he wanted further explanation, as we were ready to give it ; he replied, that he had nothing more to ask, but for some red velvet, a stool, and a bason ; which we promised to consider when our friends should arrive from Keana. We asked permission to walk a little about the village, which he granted ; but in every part of the village, we met bows bent and poisoned arrows ready for action. In one house, we met with Alpama, the Mitshi market-master, who wished us away on Friday ; he tried to keep himself out of sight, but we shook hands with him, and asked the reason why he refused our visit to his town, seeing we were walking as friends in the town of Ojogo. He laid the blame upon his unruly young men. We then invited him to the ship on Monday, to be accompanied by Onuse, the chief’s sister, and Osaba, our Keana informant. He promised to come, but wished to go home first and give his boys some beer, that they might restore the goods they had taken away from the people of Ojogo ; — then, he said, we might send one person, with the king’s sister, next market, hut no white man was to come till the market after next. When we returned on board, two chiefs, higher up the river, Mahamma of Kondoko, and Jefulla of Akpa, sent messengers to enquire who we were, for they were afraid, and to see the ship, which they did, and returned to their chiefs with satisfactory answers.

August 29 : Akpama, the Mitshi market-master, did not fulfil the promise he gave yesterday, to come on board according to our invitation ; but Mr. May quietly landed, and went to the Mitshi village, where he met the Ojogo’s sister and Akpama, who received him kindly, and he brought them both in his boat to the ship. Akpama was very reserved, and felt himself powerless on board the “Pleiad;” his weapons were left in the boat, with his dirty and ragged shirt, and he had but a piece of cloth around his waist. He was kindly spoken to through the Haussa and Doma languages, the latter of which he understood; and two pieces of waistcloth were soon passed around his loins, with which he was not a little pleased. Allusion to his wishing us away was a painful subject to him. He said, it was a by-gone matter which he did not wish to be repeated ; and promised to tell all his people of us, and to bring the chief of Wantele on board to-morrow. But he evidently did not feel at home in the ship, and in about a quarter of an hour, he left it with the chief’s sister, I hope in better spirits. If feelings of confidence and friendship are left to arise gradually in the minds of the people, we shall soon come to a mutual understanding, but when there appears to be an impatient desire to visit distrustful natives, such as the Mitshis, suspicion and distrust are awakened on their part, and are not afterwards easily removed.

August 30 — 31 : Nothing of importance occurred. The people continued to collect wood, and we were all in expectation of the return of Zuri, our messenger, from Keana, or to hear from him; he had given us hopes of his return in six or eight days, and it was now the ninth since he left. The rising of the river is one cause for desiring his return with some anxiety, lest we should lose the most favourable season for going as high as possible before the river begins to fall. Our expectation of the arrival of the travellers is also another matter of great importance, and one which cannot be easily laid aside.

September 1 : Many enquiries have been made after Zuri. Sometimes it is reported that he has been seen at Keana, but has not yet had an interview with the king ; at other times, he is said to have seen the king, but received no answer from him ; but not a word has reached us of his seeing any white men at Keana. Aliheli was sent to one of the men who were reported to have seen Zuri, but he was told that the person had returned last night. All this led us to suspect there could be no truth in the information given us of the travellers. Zuri had left Orobo, one of his slaves on board, who spoke the Haussa and Doma languages, as well as Igbira, and his little son, Musa, continued under our care. When Orobo came on board, I questioned him closely respecting the intelligence about his master, and finding lie could not continue his lies any longer, lie said, it was the oracles which had reported all that we had been told about his master. That this was a mortifying business to us I need not say. We went to the Ojogo, to express our disappointment, and to request him to send another messenger, saying one of us would go with him to Keana, to enquire after our friends, I proposed to go on Monday, if Zuri did not arrive by Sunday ; but Dr. Baikie not wishing to lose, any more time offered to start on Saturday, and with this understanding we left the Ojogo. On our way back we saw Osaba, who we understood had seen the white men at Keana, only eight days before our arrival at Ojogo. I closely cross-questioned him, when he affirmed that he had seen them five days before he left Keana, exchanging goods with the Idng to the amount of twenty slaves, hut that it was two months since he had left Keana before our arrival. This statement threw quite a new light upon the subject. The mistake of eight days must have been made by the interpreter in the multitude of questions which succeeded one another ; and we concluded they could not have remained upwards of two months in Keana without the news of it being more extensively spread; moreover, had they been there still, immediately on Zuri’s arrival at Keana, they would have written to acknowledge the receipt of Dr. Baikie’s letter to Dr. Barth, by a special messenger, if they could not have left immediately. The idea of going to Keana was, therefore, given up, but two days were allowed for the return of Zuri, and to complete our supply of wood ; Monday being fixed for our departure.

September 2 : During our stay here, I have managed to fill up the words selected for translation into the Doma or Arafro language, with a few additional sentences. My teachers were so unsteady, not being accustomed to sit an hour together at such an employment, that I could do but little at a time, so as not to wear out their patience, and risk their giving me wrong words. The hopes held out to them of a little remuneration had considerable influence upon them. I was very anxious to get a few Mitshi words ; but none of that people could be prevailed on to come near us. Akpama, the market headman, did not fulfil his promise to bring the chief of Wantele on board. Aliheli was sent with Ojogo’s sister, with some cloth to buy provisions and a bullock, of which we heard they possessed plenty, but he could get nothing. When he was bartering for a few yams, some handkerchiefs he had to buy them with, were stolen from him, and it was only owing to the kindness Akpama had received from the ship that they were restored. Aliheli said they were about him with their bows and arrows, as if they were going to war ; and, except Akpama, not one of them ever came near our ship. Several strangers from the interior, and from the villages up the river, visited the ship and sold their little goods. Among them was Asaba, a man from Rogan-Koto, one of whose legs was bitten off by a crocodile, but the wound has since been healed, and the poor man hobbled from place to place with the help of a staff, about four feet long. As soon as lie was seen by Drs. Hutchinson and Baikie, they began to think whether something could not be done to assist the poor man ; and Hr. Guthrie, the head engineer, contrived, and in a few hours completed a wooden leg. Asaba had returned to his town, as Ojogo informed us, to get something for presents to the gentlemen who were making a foot for him ; and on his return, the wooden leg was put on by Mr. Guthrie in the presence of many visitors, who were not a little amused at the contrivance of the white men. Our stay at Ojogo had its many advantages. It has become known, far higher up the river, who we are, and what are our objects, so that the minds of the people are more prepared for the arrival of the steamer.

September S : Sunday. I held Divine Service at half-past ten, and preached from St John xx. 29. In the afternoon we went on shore to take leave of the Ojogo, and to deliver him a letter for Dr. Barth, in case of his arrival in our absence. The chief was also presented with a red serge cloak, with which he was much pleased. Orobo, Zuri’s man, who understood the Djuku, or Korrofa language as well as his master, hesitated to go with us, but after a little persuasion he consented to do so ; but said he would not come on board till to-morrow morning. Further light was thrown upon the character of Zuri by Ojogo, who informed us that Zuri would not be safe if he were to go to Rogan-Koto, in Doma, which was his mother’s town, his father belonging to Abitsh, higher up in Kororofa. Both these towns belong to Panda, their present inhabitants being permitted to occupy them for the convenience of trade. Zuri appeared to have committed himself at Rogan-Koto, and he was declared an outlaw, whom any one who met him might kill, so that he fled for safety down the river. We told the chief that we knew nothing of Zuri's matter with his people, but he was employed by us, and under our protection, and as long as he continued in our service nobody should touch him. It is very difficult to know with what characters one has to do. I had many times suspected that Zuri, while on board the steamer, was assuming an authority to which he had no right, over those who came to trade at Akpoko ; all those who sold ivory had to pay him some cowries, as if on commission. On one occasion, a canoe paddled after us a considerable way, and passed us at night, not seeing us till the next morning, as we anchored in the open river and they went close to the bush. The hard bargain they made for their ivory, constantly going away, and coming back to see what they could get more, and their going away at last without selling it, led me very much to suspect that Zuri had a hand in the affair ; but I may be wrong.

The chief town of this part of Doma is Keana, whose ruling king is Adaso, said to be an Haussa by birth, who pays an annual tribute of one hundred slaves to the sultan of Sokoto, through Bautshi. All the small towns dependent on Keana have to pay their share of tribute to Adaso. It appears from the statement of the people, that the inhabitants at E Keana sally out from time to time, and catch the villagers as slaves, either in default of paying their share of tribute, or for some other alleged offence. The people of Ojogo had to quit their old town, Ajamo, and take refuge on the island in which they are now scattered in detached villages, which all go by the name of Ojogo, their chief. Such tyranny may account for the hesitation, as to sending a messenger to Ojogo without some fish to conciliate the king’s favour.

September 4 : Got under weigh about seven A.M., on our exploration of the Tshadda and enquiry after Dr. Barth. The first village we came to, after leaving Ojogo, was Ajamo, where a canoe paddled towards us, to say they had received a message from Zuri last night, who said he would be back in three days’ time, and requested us to wait for him, but not a word was said respecting the white men. I, therefore, considered the message to be a mere fabrication, especially as Orobo had refused to go up with us, and had enticed Musa, Zuri’s son, to remain on shore with him. After breakfast we parted company with one of the canoes which Mr. Crawford and the second engineer were talcing down to the Confluence of the Tshadda and Kowara, with cowries and goods for the convenience of trade : we parted with three hearty cheers. After passing several small villages, the first and second of which are named Kondoko and Amowo, on the right side of the river, we came to Rogan-Koto, situated on the slope of a rising ground facing the river, and walled on the back part. The rogan-koto.

Haussa call it Rogan-Koto, but the people themselves call it Ajewon Igbira, We anchored here for an hour, and went on shore on a visit to Sada, the chief. The inhabitants of this place are Igbira, and belong to Panda (Funda). They were permitted to settle here in Doma for the convenience of trade. Thus, they pay tribute to Panda, their lawful king, and a kind of land-tax to the king of Keana, for permission to settle in his territory. Here we met Asaba, the one-legged man, who was very glad of the leg Mr. Guthrie had made for him, and appears to be quite another man since he put away his long staff He moved about the deck with much facility, and could not express enough in words his gratitude to his benefactor. One of his wives brought a calabash full of clean rice as a present. The town of Rogan-Koto has not been left unmolested. Last year it was attacked by the Berebere, of Lafia, and a great many of the people were carried away as slaves. They have just returned to rebuild their ruined houses, very few of which remain. To those who had felt the distresses of war, the sound of peace fell upon their ears, as refreshing rain upon a thirsty land. They were kind, and wished us many blessings from God upon the undertaking of the white men to restore peace to mankind. They had not heard any news respecting any white travellers. After leaving this place, we passed the villages of Kondo and Akpa on the left side ; and about four P.M., the town 'of Abitshi (Zuri’s town), but we did not anchor. It is a small but thickly populated place, and walled around. Like Rogan-Koto, it belongs to Panda, and pays tribute to him and Wukari, in whose territory the town is situated. The Wukari territory seems to commence about Kondoko and Akpa ; but in consequence of the destruction of Panda, it is likely these places will fall into other hands. From Ojogo to Abitshi, the land rises and is hilly at times on the right bank. The river is very easy of navigation, owing to the rise of the water and absence of numerous islands. Indeed, we have not made such an easy progress since we left Aboh. The Mitshi country extends on to Wukari, at which place we expect to hear more of this singular people.

September 5 : Started early this morning from our anchorage, which was nearly abreast Mount Ethiope. The scenery is very picturesque, fresh mountains continually burst into view. There is plenty of water, and the navigation is easy. We passed several small farms and fishing villages, but as it was thought of more importance to push forward to Wukari, we did not stay to ask the names of the villages, though we had several of them given to us at Rogan-Koto. About two p.m., we came very close to a group of huts on the left bank, where it appeared they were making pottery, and dropping our anchor for a short time, we called a canoe alongside. The men told us that the name of the town to which they belonged, is Anyishi, a little way a-head of us on the left side of the river; and that they had sent to inform the chief that a ship was coming. The canoe-men hastened back, shouting, “ Sariki n Wukari, Sariki n Wukari ! (King of Wukari, King of Wukari !) I judged from this exclamation, either that the king of Wukari was there, or that this place must be of some importance belonging to him. We weighed, and in a short time came in sight of the town of Anyishi, situated on a hill on the west side of Mount Herbert ; but we did not stop, reserving our visit to these places till our return. The face of the country we passed to-day, was nearly like that of the group of mountains between Idda and the Confluence of the Tshadda and Kowara, but the hills are more scattered, and present a beautiful appearance. At times, the river flows at the foot of mountains rising immediately from the water’ s-edge ; for instance, Mount Herbert on the left, and Mount Adams a little before on the right. The banks thus present a very pleasing contrast to the low lands we have passed through. From Ojogo to Anyishi we met more frequently with villages near the river, and the people were less timid. This, no doubt, is owing to their having heard of the white men’s ship anchoring off Ojogo for some days. They always showed a disposition to come off, if the ship would but wait for them. The “ Pleiad” was well adapted for the navigation of the river, and even when she went but half-speed, neither her own boat, nor the canoes of the natives, though well manned, could keep up with her in stemming the current, which runs from one and a-half to three knots per hour. We anchored for the night, but remote from any human habitation.

September 6 : Started very ' early this morning.

The state of the river continued very favourable, the breadth not much diminished and good depth of water. The face of the country is very flat two or three miles inland on both sides, and there was no appearance of town or village, nor even of a fishing hut till about half-past one, P.M., when a fishing hut was seen on the left bank, but nobody was in it. At four o’clock we spied a group of houses at a great distance before us. This was something delightful, and about five P.M., we anchored off the villages of Gandiko, whose chief was Ama, and Gankera, whose chief was Garike. Before the ship came to an anchor, intelligence had reached the chiefs of the villages, and all hands were up in arms. Their weapons were bows and poisoned arrows, and long spears, and some men carried three or four of the latter poisoned also. Our boat was ready for us, and we pulled towards shore in search of the landing-place. There were some plantations of maize and guinea corn along the water’s edge, and some of the farmers were near; three women stood very close to the bank with seeming confidence. We addressed them in Haussa, to which they replied, and asked them for the landing-place, but they gave us no satisfactory reply. A little way higher up, we saw a man on the bank, who drove the women away. We addressed him in Haussa, and he replied : we told him we were from the white man's country, and wanted to see the chief As soon as he saw the Europeans, he cried out lustily in Haussa : “ Batwa Anasara maidukia na gode Alla” — “White men, the Nazarenes, men of property, I thank God many times over. He took the lead through old cultivated grounds, but overgrown with grass and bushes, through which we had to beat our way to the footpath leading to the town. Our leader, either from excitement or intoxication, became louder and louder in his cry, Bature Anasara maidulcia na gode Alla We soon came to a juncture of two paths, where the Galadima, a war chief of the first rank, and next to the chief, with a small party of about twenty-four men, armed with bows and arrows and spears, were stationed, and our leader with his boisterous cry introduced us to them as men of peace and trade ; in the meantime, we were lost in the midst of the soldiers, Dr. Baikie was in one direction. Dr. Hutchinson in another, and Mr. May in the midst of the soldiers. We had not a single weapon about us, offensive or defensive; but the confidence with which we went among such an armed party was enough to prevent their doing any mischief. During our whole progress the few instances in which hostility was shown or opposition made to our landing arose out of nothing else but want of mutual understanding. On the present occasion, as soon as we came together, we shook hands with the Galadima, and he led us to the town. The path was full of soldiers coming out to join the Galadima ; but seeing him return with us, they all fell back on both sides of the path which brought us to the entrance of the town. The place was fortified with a wooden fence and a ditch around it ; and in the midst of the town and under a kind of fig or banian tree planted for the sake 'of its shade, we met the chief, Ama, also armed with a bow and arrows as were about two hundred men with him. We were introduced to him by the Galadima, and after shaking hands, conversed briefly with him respecting our visit to the country. He appeared quite satisfied, and requested us to return to the ship, and wait till to-morrow before entering into particulars of the object of our journey. We returned accordingly with the hope that we might be able to visit Wukari from this place.

What is generally related of the natives of Africa as to their hostility to Europeans is not strictly correct. The truth is, they take alarm, and consequently get ready for the defence of their country, which is divided by wars, marauding and robbery into many independent states, and every district must watch against surprize by its neighbour's. It is but natural for such a people, shut out from communication with the civilized world, when they see for the first time such a huge and self-moving body as a steamer, to take alarm, not knowing the object of those who inhabit it, for to their ideas it is a town of itself. There is one thing which enterprising European explorers overlook, I mean the continual fear and insecurity the Natives are in, from the constant treachery of their enemies. This causes them to go about always armed with their bows and arrows, and at the least alarm they are ready to discharge their deadly weapons. Though travellers fear nothing themselves, yet, they should endeavour to take due precautions to allay the fears of those whom they intend to visit, by previous communication, which will soon be circulated in the neighbourhood, and then all will be right. A prudent man will not consider an hour or two wasted to effect this purpose, rather than risk the painful result of misunderstandings which may never be remedied. As far as I know, there is no place in Africa uncontaminated with European slave dealers, which Europeans have visited with the intention of doing good, where such an event has not been hailed as the most auspicious in the annals of the country. Every chief considers himself highly honoured to have white men for his friends. — In the evening, the chief sent a vessel of beer and some eggs to Dr. Baikie for a present.

September 7 : About ten, A.M., we went on shore to have an interview with the chief. After standing about ten minutes in the front hall, which forms the entrance into his inner yard, he came out and seated us on a coarse mat platted of straw or small grass. After the usual salutation, we commenced stating the object of our visit. But Ama the chief was interrupted; Garike the chief of Gankera was outside, and he ought to have been invited in, which Ama did not feel inclined to do. A long discussion ensued between him and his people, and after a little cessation, Ama wished us to say what we wanted to say, and to give what we had for him, and then, he said, we might go and salute the other chief outside under the tree. lie was answered, that we must leave it to lum whether the matter was to be talked over here in his hall or under the tree, for we were strangers, and he was to give ns directions. As we would not proceed, he went out and invited Sariki Garike in. This man looks older than Ama, and neither of them appeared to understand, or at least they would not speak Haussa, the Filani language being their medium of communication, as well as the Djuku, which is the language of Kororofa. Everything said in English was interpreted into Haussa, and the Haussa was again into Filani or Djuku to the chiefs. They had not heard of the Anasara traveller, (Dr. Barth) and were very glad to hear that trade would he established with them. They said, if there was no trade with foreigners, the country would never prosper; that they were weary of making war, to which they were always sent by their masters, that they came to this place to settle and cultivate the land, and that if they had anything else to do, they would not go to war, unless for the defence of their country, or at the command of their superiors. They had heard previously from their men, that we were not slave dealers, hence the turn given to their intercourse with us. As regards our journey to Wukari, after Ama and Garike had conferred together, Ama replied, that they were at war with Wukari, so that we could not go there from this place. He asked whether we did not see the town Anyishi on the hill as we passed up the river, and on our replying in the affirmative, he said, that was the place to ask the way to Wukari. After Dr. Baikie had made them presents from Government, we obtained permission to walk about the town; and visited Gankera, the next village, much larger than Gandiko, where we saw some Arabian horses in very good condition, kept purposely for catching slaves. I saw two females in the town whose only clothing consisted of a few leaves, and who seemed quite unconcerned about their condition. I hope to be able to learn particulars about this people hereafter. We returned to the ship about two P.M. While the Krumen were wooding, some ivory was brought on board which was purchased. A mallam, a native of Kano, who had come to this place on a visit, told me that Ama had deceived us as to the road to Wukari ; and that had we landed about three miles below, we might have gone there, assuring us that he had lately come from that place on a visit to the king, who gave him the tobe he had on. There was another Haussa man in Gankera, who was very anxious that we should visit Wukari, and offered to place his horses at our service, and to accompany us himself, but as Ama had put difficulties in our way, he could do nothing. The pretended war, which Ama said they had with Wukari, was of ancient date. It appears, at one time, the king of Kororofa being annoyed by the Mitshis, or some restless tribes about him, hired the Filanis to assist him to conquer them. When this was done, the Filanis, according to their usual practice, settled permanently in that part of the country they had encamped in, and annoyed Kororofa itself instead of returning to their own country ; hence their war with Wukari, and as they were too powerful to be dislodged by the Djuku,, and' could not conquer Wukari, they became masters of that part of the country, which goes by the name of Zhibh, comprising six towns and villages on the left side of the river, viz. Hunue, Wazhiri, Gandiko, Gankera, Ibi, and Zhibh, the capital, higher up. Three other towns, Mitshi, Fagarike, and Baibai, are mentioned, but they seem to belong to Wukari. They appear, at present, to be at peace with Wukari, though the latter owes them a grudge for encroaching upon his territory. These marauders make yearly incursions into the Mitshi country, and the outskirts of Kororofa, and carry away captives, to sell towards Keana, in Doma, Bautshi, and Kano. The slaves are, undoubtedly, marched across the desert to supply the markets there, and this circumstance will explain the depopulated state of the country from Anyishi to the district of Zhibu — thus a distance of about forty miles, with beautiful ridges of highland rising beyond the magnificent Binue, presents a continued wilderness without inhabitants. In the afternoon the chief, Ama, came on board, and was shown round the ship, which surprised him not a little. The people possess a few miserable canoes made from parts of trees sewn together by ropes.