Departure from Abbeokuta

June 17: The ‘Bacchante’ arrived this morning from Fernando Po, and brought the painful intelligence of Mr. Beecroft's death, which took place the night before she sailed. I felt this very much as the Expedition was just expected, and I knew no other person connected with it besides him ; this caused a little anxiety, but I resigned everything to God’s good and unerring providence.

June 18: Sunday. Attended morning service in Mr. Golhner’s church, and in the afternoon at Mr. White’s house, where I heard Mr. Phillip address the congregation.

June 19 : To-day was spent in making necessary preparations, and writing letters for England, against the arrival of the mail.

June 20: The ‘Forerunner’ arrived about one o’clock P.M., by which I learnt that some of the gentlemen of the Expedition were on board of her, and that the ‘ Pleiad ’ would not touch at Lagos, but proceed direct to Fernando Po, so I prepared myself for embarking to-morrow morning.

June 21 : About nine A.M., I embarked, and was very glad to meet Dr. Baikie, Dr. Bleek, and Mr. Dalton, a young zoological assistant, on board ; they kindly brought me letters from England and Sierra Leone, and parcels of books and many useful articles from Lady Buxton and Captain Trotter, for which I was very thankful. I was sorry to find Dr. Bleek rather out of health, but it was thought he might be better by the time we arrived at Fernando Po. There was also on board, the Rev. J. Diboll, with Mrs. Diboll and daughter, Baptist missionary to Fernando Po : they were all very glad to see me. About half-past eleven A.M. the ‘Forerunner* weighed anchor, and in a short time we lost sight of Lagos.

June 22; Arrived off the Bonny river, where a ship was lying at anchor; the mail was left in charge of one of the passengers, who left the ‘Forerunner’, and went on hoard of her : she was waiting for the pilot to take her across the bar next morning ; we made for Old Calabar. After crossing the bar we anchored for the night.

June 23: Arrived at Old Calabar about eleven A.M ; as the mail was only to stop here a few hours I could not go on shore to advantage. Mr. W. C. Thompson, son of the late Mr. W. C. Thompson, linguist, in connection with the Church Missionary Society at Sierra Leone, took his passage in her for England, and the missionaries accompanied him on board ; about four o’clock p.M. we started, and anchored outside the bar.

June 24) : Arrived at Cameroon river about seven p.m. The mails were delivered, and received that night.

June 25: Sunday. Started as soon as it was light, and made for Fernando Po. It rained heavily}*; in consequence of which no service could be held. About four P.M. we anchored off Clarence, and found to our great disappointment that the ‘Pleiad’ had not yet arrived : various thoughts were expressed and conjectures made, as may be expected, as to the cause of her non-arrival. I landed, and took my lodging at Mr. J. Wilson’s, the same house I occupied in 1841 with Mr. Schon, in which we held divine service during our stay in the island. The people were very glad to see me, and expressed their regret for the loss of Mr. Beecjoft ; for he had made full preparation for the Expedition ; and had engaged many intelligent natives who had been used to go up the Niger with him, and who were ready to go anywhere with him, they being mutually attached to each other, for he treated them as a father. It will be a long time before his place can be supplied by another, who will take the same interest in the country and her people as he did.

June 26 : Took my boxes on shore to my lodging ; every one was on the look out for the ‘Pleiadh After breakfast, visited Mr. Beecroft’s grave, which is on the point of the cliff of Clarence, under a large cotton-tree, where he himself had directed that he should be buried. Thus ended the life of this useful person, after twenty-five years stay in Africa, during which period he had won the affection of many who knew his worth in the countries he had visited ; and could not but greatly regret to hear of his removal by death. The chiefs of Abbeokuta had sent salutations and messages to him by me, which he did not live to receive. As long as this generation lasts, the name of Mr. Beecroft will not be forgotten in this part of West Africa.

June 27 : The ‘Pleiad’ had not arrived, and the ‘ Forerunner’ would not have waited any longer, had not Captain Miller, senior officer of Her Majesty’s squadron in the Bights, ordered her to stay till Thursday.

June 28 : The ‘Pleiad’ arrived this evening, to the great joy of all parties.

June 29: The ‘Forerunner’ had been detained two days beyond her time, or she would have towed the ‘Pleiad’ off the Nun, in order to save fuel; she sailed away this evening with our letters for England. Dr. Bleek’s state of health being considered by the medical gentlemen to be very precarious, he was pronounced unfit to accompany the Expedition, and was consequently sent back to England by the ‘ Forerunner.’ July 2 : Sunday. Held the morning service in Mr. Beecroft’s new house, which Mr. Lynslager had kindly ordered to be cleared out yesterday for the purpose : the service was well attended, both by resident Europeans and many from the ships in the cove, besides many of the Native settlers in connection with the Baptist Church ; Captain Miller, of the ‘Crane’ was also present. I preached from 2 Cor. V. 1.

July 3 — 7 : Captain Miller rendered every possible assistance to hasten the departure of the ‘Pleiad’, and as his help was no more needed, he sailed away to-day.

July 8 : This afternoon, I embarked on board the ‘ Pleiad’, as she was to sail this evening. About nine r.M. we weighed for the Nun, with two large iron canoes laden with coals in tow ; the friends who accompanied us a short distance from the harbour left us with hearty cheers. As the wind rose, and the swell became heavy, the canoes did not tow well, and there was some fear of their being upset : the night was, therefore, past with some anxiety.

July 9 : Sunday. Heavy rains : we were not much more than twenty miles from Fernando Po. The canoes continued to labour from the heavy swell and a strong current; the steamer could not go more than half her speed for fear of swamping the canoes. About noon, the spindle of the safety-valve gave way, and steam could not be kept up, so we could not proceed until it was repaired, which took three hours, and we were drifted eastward by the westerly current, with heavy swell and rains. Nearly all hands were sea-sick, no service could be held.

July 1 0 : Off the mouth of the Bonny river ; our progress very slow ; the safety-valve out of order, in consequence of which we were many times short of steam.

July 11 : Off the mouth of the St. John or Brass river ; anchored for the night between it and the mouth of the Nun.

July 12 : About two P.M. with the flood tide we crossed the bar;* the ‘Pleiad’ was piloted by Mr. Thomas Richards, a Yoruba man, who had made many voyages up the Niger with the late Mr. Beecroft, and has a good knowledge of the localities about the coast and the Niger. When we were in the midst of the bar, the hawser of one of the canoes, in which there were seven Krumen, broke, and as * In the former Expedition this same bar was crossed one month later in the year, viz. August 13th : and a week was spent before the vessels began to ascend the river. Ed.

we could not stop to render her any assistance, she was left to make the best of her way through the surf, though not without great anxiety for the men ; for the surf was tremendous, so much so that it broke once over our poop, though the tide was in our favour : every eye was fixed upon the drifted canoe, and it was no small joy to see her now and then buoyed up from the deep furrow upon the top of the surf, following our track, till she got across in safety : — the iron canoes seem to ride very lightly upon the surf. About three o’clock we anchored inside the bar very near to Alburka Island : when the engineer came to examine the engine, he found that the safety-valve was just gone, and it was providential that we had got across the bar before this happened.

July 13, 14 : These days were spent in repairing the engine ; and on the 15th, about six A.M., we got under weigh for the Niger. Louis’ Creek was found blocked up, so Mr. Richards took a boat to sound the next creek, the ‘Pleiad’ waiting at the entrance. He returned about half-past nine A.M., and reported that he had found the channel. We started, with the tide still in our favour ; but about twelve o’clock we missed the right channel, and ran aground on the point of Sunday Island, the left passage having been taken instead of the right, which was the proper channel ; we could not get the vessel off this evening.

July 16: Sunday. With the flood tide exertions were made, and the vessel was hove off about half-past eleven A.M. ; but before the ship) could be put to rights, it was too late to make any progress. I had service in the afternoon about two o’clock, and preached from St. John i. 22, 2-3. All hands well and cheerful. When we were lying aground this morning, a canoe was seen paddled down the river with produce ; another came alongside with four men in, unarmed, to see the ship, they asked whether she was a slave or oil ship : — they were answered ‘ palm-oil ship.’ July 17 : We got under weigh about seven A.5r. and made good progress in three to seven fathoms water. Soon after we had cleared Sunday Island, traces of cultivation began to appear, together with land about three feet above the water’.s edge. As the water has not yet risen to its full height, it gave an entirely new appearance to the river, from that it bore in August 1811. At that time, only a few spots near the water’s edge were under cultivation, and the whole was covered with water, as the river overflowed its banks. Not only old plantations showed a continued industry of the people of the Delta, but many newly-cleared spots, in the midst of which numerous lofty palm trees stood, which were carefully preserved for their rich and valuable produce, showed further, the uninjured state of the banks. About three hours from Sunday Island, we came to inhabited villages ; we induced two canoes to come off, from whom we learnt that the people between Brass and Aboh are called Oru. One of the people who came off, and who spoke the Ibo language, was so confident, that he offered to go with us to Aboh ; and the people on shore, never showed the least sign of opposition, hut folded their arms and gazed at the steamer as she glided on. Fewer traces of cultivation were observed during the day till we came to the village of Angiama. Brass people come up here to buy palm-oil with large casks in their canoes, some of which they land as they proceed upwards. There is another striking change in the habits of the people themselves ; in 1841, very few of them were to be found with any decent articles of clothing; I spied to-day, among a group of about forty people on shore, fifteen who I could distinctly see had English shirts on. This is an evident mark of the advantage of legal trade over that in men. The chief of Angiama, or Anya, came off, and expressed his regret, that we did not wait at his village, as Captain Trotter had done ; and it was with some difficulty that we could satisfy him by our excuses ; but we hoped to be able to stay on our return. Dr. Baikie gave him a red cap and a looking-glass ; but I could read in his countenance, as well as by the temper one of his men manifested, that, if they had had it in their power, they would have detained us in Oru, to reap all the benefits of the trade to themselves, instead of allowing it to pass through their waters to the people of the interior beyond them. To-day’s voyage occupied eleven and a half hours.

Since we entered the Nun, I have been thinking what could have made this river more unhealthy than any other, independent of the general unhealthiness of the climate. It occurred to me, that the evil might have partly originated in the Expedition itself, as nothing had been left undone, especially in 1841, to ensure good health : that, probably, miasma may have been created by the raw and green wood for fuel kept in the bunkers for days together, and by the noxious exudation and vapour issuing therefrom, and by the mixture of chips and haik with the bilge water. I hinted this idea to Captain Taylor, Dr. Baikie, and Dr. Hutchinson, that a trial might be made of keeping the wood in the canoes, and only calling for it as occasion required : they all at once agreed to take every precaution which might be likely to conduce to health.

July 18 : Got under weigh at seven A.M., and steamed past many villages on both banks; several canoes came off. The banks were about six feet above the water’s edge, at intervals, on both sides ; one is not impressed with the idea of a swamp by the sight of these high banks. The wind was fresh and pleasant. About noon, we were opposite a group of villages on the left bank, where a creek with plenty of water entered the main river ; we followed it up about half-an-hour, but as it grew narrow and covered with green stuff and weeds, we returned ; the natives also told us that it was not the way to king Obi. As we were returning, we met two canoes which were following us, waving a white piece of cloth as a sign of peace. It appears this signal is well known all along the river, and a great way into the interior. They told us that the creek led into the bush, and into a very narrow passage, which they called a hole. They received some trifling presents. About three o’clock we were opposite the villages KING obi’s death CONFIRMED.

of Kalabal and Okoloba, where in 1841 the ‘ Wilberforce’ re-entered the main river, and a note was left for the ‘ Albert’s’ information. * Here we met a number of Brass people, traders in palm-oil ; they came alongside to sell live stock and provisions.

July 19 : Got under weigh about six A.M. Our progress was rather slow, owing to a strong current. About noon we touched the ground on a point below Truro Island, and were about an hour in getting the vessel off ; at a short distance, the channel being missed above Truro Island, we ran aground again in the afternoon, where we stayed for the night. Several canoes came off: we asked them respecting Obi, whose death was confirmed, and it was stated that Aje, one of his sons, was now in his father’s room, but not recognised as his successor, until white men should come up and decide who should be king. This unexpected intelligence appears favourable as regards the confidence they have in white men. It gave us time to think what it would be best to do, should the matter be brought before the commissioned officer for advice.

July 20 : We remained aground until five P.M., and thus lost a day’s voyage. Some of the neighbouring chiefs of Oru came off, with whom we had conversation about legal trade, and in order to get it well established, we pointed out to them the necessity of agreeing among themselves, never to molest English boats or canoes passing up and down the river, as that would prove detrimental to • See Schiin and Crowther’s Journal, p. 279.

trade, and turn to their own disadvantage. Mr. Richards, who went to take the soundings this morning, returned in the afternoon, and confirmed the statement of the people ; he had been told higher up, that they were waiting the arrival of the white men who should decide who was to succeed king Obi.

July 21 : We left at six A.M., and anchored off Aboh* at five P.M. The river has fallen considerably since June, as there has been no rain ; we had some showers and a few wet days, but not sufficient to effect a change in the rise of the river; but, however, there was always sufficient water if the channel were carefully traced out. The ‘ Pleiad’ drew more than seven feet water. A great number stood at each village as we steamed past them, to gaze at the motion of the ship ; they missed the paddles, the ‘ Pleiad’ being a screw ship, (which seemed to answer remarkably well,) so that the astonished villagers could not account for the power which propelled her onward against the strong current.

The people of Aboh showed still some timidity, on account of the affair of the late Mr. Carr, concerning whom the ‘ Wilberforce’ came to make some enquiries.f When Mr. Beecroft last visited this place, * In the journals of the former expedition, this name is written “ Ibo.” Ibo, or Igbo, is the name of a large country ; Aboh is a district and town situated in Ibo.

t Mr. Carr accompanied the expedition in 1841, to superintend the model farm at the Confluence, and was zealously labouring there for a short time, when he was taken ill with fever. The medical men deemed it necessary to take him on board the I believe in 1845, be went on shore to invite people on board before any would come off; and as they had been informed by mistake that he died three years ago, they did not know who the captain was, hence their shyness to come to the ship. After some hesitation, a canoe with five men came off to us with two yams, which were bought for one empty bottle : other canoes kept close to the beach at a great distance. The men who sold the two yams appeared to be strangers from Oru, and could not speak Ibo well. On their return, they brought an “ Albert,” on her return to Fernando Po. There he was soon restored to health, and being anxious to return to his post, he proposed to leave Fernando Po for the river Bonny, and proceed to the Confluence, by hiring a native canoe and crew. And when her Majesty’s ship “ Pluto ” left for that river, he availed himself of the opportunity, and took a passage in her, together with his native servant. At Bonny he succeeded in obtaining a boat manned by some men who were strangers at the place, and who promised to take him as far as Aboh. They left, but from that time nothing more was heard of Mr. Carr, nor of his servant, and there can be no doubt, but they were murdered for the sake of plunder. Some articles of clothing, seen either at Aboh or near it, supposed to have belonged to Mr. Carr, gave rise to the suspicion, that Obi had been implicated in the matter. The good feeling previously existing between him and the British officers was interrupted, and some acts of hostility committed on both sides. From Mr. Crowther’s remarks we may gather, that those unpleasant feelings had not quite subsided, and that but for the good services and explanations of Simon Jonas, the expedition might have met with some obstacles at Aboh. The officers of the present expedition are convinced that Obi had no concern hi Mr. Carr’s death. I have always believed, that if Mr. Carr had reached Aboh, he would have been safe in Obi’s hands ; and that, if ho met with a violent death, it took place, m all probability, soon after his departure from Bonny. The late Mr. Beecroft entertained the same opinion, — J.F. Schun.

Aboh man alongside, who was evidently sent to see who we were. He would not come on board. Simon Jonas was therefore sent in their canoe to inform the chief that we were come. Before he reached the creek, a Haussa man, who was an old servant of Mr. Lander, named after himself (Aliheli Lander), was sent to inquire who we were, and to say that the chief was disappointed that the captain did not fire to announce his arrival. Aliheli accompanied Mr. Lander to Fernando Po and back, speaks English, and was subsequently employed by Mr. Beecroft in his voyages up the river, and is well known to many people where the vessels touched. He was slave to king Obi, but got his liberty at his master’s death, as it appears, for his good services to him.

From Aliheli, we learnt correctly that since Obi’s death there h§s been some dispute as to his successor. There is another party besides the line of Obi, Osai’s family, which lays claim to the throne ; that is the line of Oshiodapara. Obi’s eldest son, who has a right to the throne, is Tshukuma, otherwise called Okorobi, but he appears to lack energy, so that Aje his younger brother, an active man, took the lead, as it appears, with the approbation of Tshukuma : but the line of Oshiodapara contended for the throne in favour of one Orise,* and demanded that if Obi’s family would not give place to that of Osbiodapara, whatever they had paid to Obi as their king should be returned : so it appears the matter rests at present. Aje heads one party of the town, called The final e pronounced as a broad open vowel.

the king’s party, and Orise the other party, called Oshiodapara’s party. It appears both parties are at peace. Unfortunately Aje and Orise were not at home on our arrival, but absent at Igara, to which place they had gone some ten days before, to settle some dispute which had taken place between the Atta’s subjects, on which occasion, a woman of Oshiodapara’s family was accidently killed. We sent Simon Jonas* to tell Tshukuma that we intended to pay him a visit the next morning.

July 22 : Took an early breakfast, and about eight A.M. we started for the town of Aboh, which lies about one mile in length along the western bank of the creek, very thickly populated. We landed close to Tshukuma’s house, which was very small and confined ; his old house having been lately burnt. He had been worshipping his god that morning, which we saw in his piazza, in a calabash placed in the front of a wall, covered with a white sheet. We waited about ten minutes before Tshukuma made his appearance, dressed in a pair of thin Turkish trousers, a white shirt, a white waistcoat, and a string of coral beads about his neck: he is smaller in size and stature than Obi, his father, is very soft in his manners, and seems not possessed of much energy. He shook us all heartily by the hand, and in a short time the little square was crowded to excess, so that there was no room to move ; and the place became so thronged, that it was difficult to keep one’s seat on the mat spread for our accommodation. Tshukuma * Simon Jonas is a native of the country, and was employed in the Expedition of 1841.

used all his efforts to command silence, but to no purpose. Obi’s daughter and the chiefs’ wives took their turn to command silence, but it only increased the noise. At last, Tshukuma requested us to frighten the people away, which of course we did not do. As it was impossible to obtain perfect silence, I suggested to Dr. Baikie to begin business, as we could manage to keep close enough to hear each other.

The substance of Dr. Baikie’s Interview with the chief was, that the Queen had desired him to visit them, and see how they did ; that we were sorry to hear of Obi’s death ; we hoped his successor would be of the same mind as the late Idng, and that they still adhered to the treaty he had signed with Captain Trotter, who acted in the name of the Queen ; and that trade was now come to the Aboh country, about which Dr. Hutchinson would speak fully with him. Tshukuma replied, that he was very glad to see a large ship come to Aboh again, and that he and the other headmen were particularly charged by Obi, before his death, not to deviate from the path he had trod, respecting his friendship with the white men, and that they would act accordingly; but as Aje was absent from home, in Igara, with a great number of the headmen, to settle some matter in that place, he expressed a wish that we would wait till they returned, as he expected them in three or four days’ time, and he would send a canoe to hasten their return. To this we objected, because we were in a hurry to go up to fetch down some white men, who were waiting for us in the interior.* Tshukuma said, the fault was not with them, but with the white men themselves ; that many times promises of trade had been made to them, but never fulfilled. I told him that the English had it much in their mind to fulfil their word, but could not do so till now on account of sickness. Tshukuma replied, Had they not gone further than Aboh, they would not have been taken ill, and been obliged to return to the sea so soon as they were.

I now thought it time to introduce the subject of a Missionary establishment among them. I told him that we had come to see what we could do to make a Missionary station at Aboh, as we had done in my country at Badagry, Lagos, and Abbeokuta, and has been done also at Calabar and the Camaroons. One of Obi's daughters replied, that they could not conceive why white men should build houses in Bonny and Calabar, and not in Aboh ? I told them that our superiors have been thinking of it a long time, but now they are in earnest, and are very desirous of sending some Ibo teachers to Aboh, to reside there, and teach them many things, if they are willing to learn. Tshukuma said, my words were too good for them to hope that they will be realised, and that he would not believe any thing until he had seen us do what we proposed ; that there was no difficulty on their part, nor need we fear any * When the Expedition left England, it was hoped that Dr. Barth and Dr. Vogel, who have penetrated Africa from the north, might have been able to meet the ‘ Pleiad.’ But subsequent accounts have shown that neither of them could have been in that neighbourhood at the time, even if Dr. Barth still survives.

unwillingness to receive those who may be sent to them or learn what they may be taught ; but that the fault rests with us in not fulfilling what we promised to do.

To show that I was in earnest in what I had said, I told him that I would leave Simon Jonas with him till our return, and that when Aje and the other chiefs came back, we would talk the matter over more fully. He was very glad to hear of my intention to leave Simon Jonas with them. After this, we asked his permission to walk about the town. He himself accompanied us to Aje’s house, which was more capacious, drier, and better built than his own, in squares. We sat down there a while, on mats spread on the floor for its, and soon after left for the town. The river was greatly fallen, in consequence of which, the only street which runs parallel with the creek was free from water, but moist, and it gave us the advantage of walking to a considerable distance, crossing many gutters formed by the washing of the earth of the cross streets into the creek. In this long street, canoes are paddled to the very doors of the houses at high water. It is very much to be regretted that such a thickly-populated place as this is not better situated ; however, this should not be an objection to answer the call, “ Come over and help us their willingness to receive teachers, and to be instructed, amounts to such a call. The chief said, I should see at my return the driest spot which would answer our purpose. Tshukuma being invited on board, he returned home to make ready, and we returned to the ship about half-past ten A.M. A short time after.

the chief came on board, accompanied by his head ■wife, Aje’s head ■wife, and three of Obi’s daughters. Captain Taylor had some talk with him about trade, and took him, and his male and female followers to the saloon, where they were invited to lunch, which they seemed to enjoy very much ; after this, Di*. Baikie gave presents to himself and to his female attendants. He engaged to cut wood for us, which he promised we should receive in the afternoon, but he was unable to fulfil his promise, on account of the short notice, and his people not being near at hand. Tshukuma never mentioned that there was any dispute among them relative to their politics ; so we, of course, appeared ignorant of the matter, but the frequent mention of the king’s party confirmed the report of the existence of differences among them.

July 23 : Sunday. Had service on board at half-past ten, and preached from St. John i. 29. The boat was just ready for me after service, to go on shore, to see and speak a few words with the chief on religious subjects, and also to ask his permission to address the people in the town, when his canoe appeared from the creek, with numerous attendants, so I postponed my going till his return; but he remained so long on board, that there was no prospect of his soon going away. When Captain Taylor had done with him, I took the opportunity to speak with him at length on the subject of the Christian religion, Simon Jonas interpreting for me. The quickness with which he caught my explanation of the all-sufficient sacrifice of Jesus Christ, the Son of God, for the sin of the world, was gratifying. I endeavoured to illustrate it to him in this simple way. “ What would you think of any persons, who, in broad daylight like this, should light their lamps to assist the brilliant rays of the sun to enable them to see better?” He said, “It would be useless ; they would be fools to do so.” I replied, “Just so that the sacrifice of Jesus Christ, the Son of God, was sufficient to take away our sins, just as one sun is sufficient to give light to the whole world : that the worship of country fashions, and numerous sacrifices, which shone like lamps, only on account of the darkness of their ignorance and superstition, though repeated again and again, yet cannot take away our sins : but that the sacrifice of Jesus Christ, once offered, alone can take away the sin of the world. He frequently repeated the names, “Oparra Tshuku ! Oparra Tshuku ! ” Son of God ! Son of God ! As I did not wish to tire him out, I left my discourse fresh in his mind. The attention of his attendants, with the exception of a few, was too much engaged in begging and receiving presents, to listen to all I was talking about. I gave Shukuma a Yoruba primer, in which I wrote his name ; and left some with Simon Jonas, to teach the children, or any who should feel disposed to learn, the Alphabet and words of two letters. Tshukuma and his attendants were perfectly at home in the steamer, and it was not till a gentle hint was given them, that the gentlemen wanted to take their dinner, that he ordered his people to make ready for their departure, at half-past four o'clock. He desired Simon Jonas to accompany him in his canoe, but I told him that I would send him afterwards. He gave Captain Taylor one bullock, seventy yams, and two hundred pieces of fire-wood. Simon Jonas was sent on shore in the evening with a supply of four thousand cowries and seven fathoms of cloth, for his subsistence till our return.

July 4: Could not start this morning till nine o’clock, in consequence of having lost a kedge ■with a hawser, the latter rather an indispensable article ; after nearly three hours’ fruitless search, we moved onward on our voyage. Our progress was very slow to-day. In consequence of the strong current, we missed the channel and got into shoal water, touched twice, and were obliged to drop back, and anchored below Bullock Island. Mr. Richards went to find the channel. We passed a few villages on the right side of the river, and some large canoes from the market passed alongside of us. The country was open here, and the wind was fresh and pleasant.

July 25: Got under weigh at about six A.M., and came opposite the group of villages of Ossamare or Awsimini, on the left bank. This place is said to be the resort of traders between Aboh and the Elugu and Isoama tribes of the Ibo country. If this he correct, taking also the open state of the country from this locality and upwards into consideration, it presents one of the best situations for a Missionary establishment among the Iboes. I shall make it a point to land and learn more of this place on our return. The great number of people along the bank to look at the steamer, tells the thickly populated state of this part of the country; and a great 24-number of well-looking bullocks which were seen on the sand-beach, a little distance from those groups of spectators, speaks in favour of the industry of the people. I believe that from this the Bullock Island took its name. Steaming was slow and tedious, owing to a strong current and zigzag passage from point to point to avoid shallow water, and numerous sandbanks. A little after six we anchored off a district of Ibo villages, called Okoh, on the right bank ; a lake of water was seen at a little distance before we came to anchor : the country is very open. We had passed two villages on the left bank before we came to anchor, for we steered on the right bank. The villages are Osutshi, and Akra Atani.

July 26 : Started this morning about half-past seven o'clock, passed several groups of the people of Okoh, their villages being scarcely visible from the river, with the exception of a few fishing huts. About ten A.M., some rocks were seen on the left bank, and the country began to present an undulating appearance. Shortly after, a group of about five hundred people burst into view in Onitsha market, on the left bank, trafficking by the water-side, with a great number of canoes ; we steamed past them, as we were desirous, if possible, of getting to Adamugu before evening. Onitsha is the last market-town belonging to Aboh, on the left bank ; a little while after we came to the Asaba market on the right side ; they consider it the same as Onitsha, but no trade was going on, and about half-past two P.M. we unfortunately struck on a bank between Walker and Long Islands; we came suddenly upon it, having just sounded three fathoms.

when the bow struck in four feet water : and with all the efforts we could make the vessel could not be got afloat that evening. Mr. Richards took the boat and went to sound about Walker Island, and returned late in the evening.

July 27 : After breakfast, Mr. Richards went to take soundings again. At noon the ship was afloat, and at half-past one P.M. we got the steam up, weighed, and passed Ode creek on the left bank, where there were some canoes ; — this place is said to belong to Aboh. At seven P.M. we anchored opposite a place where the situation of the village Uto was pointed out, but it was not visible from the river. The navigation of the river from Aboh to this place requires very* great care in crossing from point to point, on account of many banks which stretch across the centre of the river, leaving the channel very close to the shore. It was on such a bank, slightly covered, that we struck after sounding three fathoms ; many of them being visible to-day, we passed them more cautiously, by sending a boat a-head to find out the right channel : with this experience, we hope to be able to proceed more successfully during the remainder of our voyage. When the Expedition came out in 1841, either these banks had not accumulated, or they were completely under water as the river was much higher then, so that the vessels went over all.

July 28 : Weighed at six A.M., and in about an hour we came opposite the first village of conical huts on the left bank, called Ommodomo, Children’s Children ; ” it being the village of Adarnugu given by the Atta, or chief of Idda, to his daughter as the inheritance of her children. Mr. Richards told me that Dasaba Nufi, king of Lade, brought his forces down to this place when he contemplated attacking the inhabitants of the Delta, to revenge the murder of Mr. Carr. I shall relate the particulars respecting Dasaba’s expedition hereafter. We commenced speaking with the people here in Yoruba as well as in Haussa, because there are Yoruba and Haussa slaves in this neighbourhood. About nine A.M. we came opposite the town of Adamugu, where one oblong and three round huts were seen near the water-side, on the left bank ; the town itself being a little way inland. From Onitsha market to Adamugu, the banks presented at times the appearance of mud walls, about si.x feet high from the water’s edge. The interior of the country now and then assumed an open appearance. From Onitsha market to Adamugu the country is very thinly populated, and appears low and swampy in many places. We were steaming rapidly on, and every one was in hopes of getting near Igara this evening, when, unfortunately, we took a channel which had been blocked up, and as we were returning to find another, the ship stuck fast in one fathom water. With all our efforts for the whole afternoon, she could not be floated off.

July 29 ; The labour of getting the ship afloat was resumed, but without success till about four P.M., when she dropped down to the middle of the stream, and lay there at anchor. After dinner, a party of us landed on the beach of a sandy island, abreast of which we had grounded, to take a little exercise, while the ship was dropping down. We rejoined her about seven p.m. The country is open, and the weather cool and pleasant ; the nearest village below us is Ami-Doko, a few miles above Adamugu.

July 30 : Sunday. As the men had laboured so very hard from Friday till late on Saturday, we remained quietly at anchor to-day, and had service at half-past ten. I preached from Matt. vii. 13. Several canoes came alongside, as on other days, to sell provision and cloths, but they were sent away, as it was the Lord's-day, in which we do no work. This they seem to understand as soon as they are told it, because Mr. Beecroft in his many voyages up this river told them the same.

July 31 : Got under weigh this morning at half-past six. About nine we came abreast of Lander's Island, where the inhabitants of Oko Idoko and Abijaga, on the point of the first island, were seen on the bank, gazing at us as we passed. About five P.M. we anchored some little distance off Idda for convenience of wooding. Two messengers were immediately despatched to announce our arrival, and to tell them that we would pay the Atta an early visit the next morning. This precautionary step was taken to remove every shadow of excuse from the Atta, that it was contrary to custom to see strangers on the day of their arrival in his country.

August 1 : I had already told the gentlemen to prepare for a hard day's work, for it causes more trouble to see the Atta than any other chief we have yet met with : accordingly, we partook of an early breakfast, and taking some lunch with us, started for c 2 Idda about seven A.M. On landing we saw nothing of our messengers, but proceeded to the town, and there met one of the king’s eunuchs, of whom we made enquiry concerning them. Without telling us directly where they were, he led us to the house of Ehemodina, an elderly chief, and a relative of the late Abokko, so favourably spoken of in Lander’s and Oldfield’s journals, and to whom the Landers were indebted for the preservation of their lives in their exploration of the Niger. Abokko’s family has ever since been considered, by right, the agent through whom all white men must be introduced to the Atta. In this place we met our messengers, who had been detained since last night, till messengers should arrive from English Island, where an army of about five hundred men were encamped, to encounter the party of one Agabidoko, their opponents. It was nearly noon before the expected messengers arrived, and from the severe rebuke one of them received from the chief, it appears that he had delivered a wrong message. Ehemodina then told us, that we could not see the king before to-morrow. We told him we could not wait so long, as we were in a hurry to ascend the river. He said he was in a difficulty ; for he did not like us to go to the king without the consent of Abokko’s son, or else Abokko’s name would be dishonoured. He then asked whether we should like to go to English Island and see Abokko’s son there, that he might send some one to take us to the Atta, and promised himself to accompany us to the river side. To this we consented, as we had determined to see the Atta to-day, and not be unnecessarily detained, and accordingly, Eliemodina ordered his old, but very poor white mare to be saddled. As we kept him briskly engaged in conversation, he had no time to go in to dress himself for the ride, so he called for his dresses, and put them on where we were sitting, and started with us immediately. We had to retrace our steps nearly a mile to the river’s edge, where we embarked for English Island, distant about two miles, to the point where Okeyin, Ahokko’s son, was encamped with about five hundred men. We were led to his shed, and immediately commenced business. He wished us to stay till to-morrow before seeing the king ; but we objected to this, and told him that we had taken the trouble to come to him, and to give him the honour due to him, that we might be able to accomplish our object to-day. lie thought it would he proper that the ship should come near first, before we saw the Atta. I told him that the ship was taking in wood, and we came to do business at the same time ; besides this, it would make no difference to the Atta whether the ship was near or far ; for when Captain Trotter brought four ships here, thirteen years ago, and invited the Atta oii board, he refused to come, because, he said, “ the king never goes into a canoe.”* After a pause, he wished us to show him what we were going to give the king. I told him it is not the white man’s fashion to show to others what he intends giving to his friend, and applied the case to themselves, * See Schon. and Crowthei’s Journal, p. 86.

asking them, if I were going to give a needle to any of them, whether it would he right to exhibit it to everybody. I added, that we did not know what we might be disposed to give to any person, until we had proved him by the word of his mouth and his conduct ; and that if he deserved it, I might be disposed to give him the jacket off my back. Here they were put to silence. Oti, an intelligent-looking man, was immediately called to accompany us to the Atta, and Okeyin promised to get some eatables ready for us against our return ; so we started again for the town, and took our lunch in the boat as we went along. Immediately on landing, we met a band of drummers and a fifer, who began to play; and Otf, the messenger, gave us a dance, flinging his sheathed sword in the air, which he caught with precision, and shook it towards us to signify what an expert man he was. This revived our party a little, for they seemed somewhat weary in walking up and down the hill of Idda from morning till the afternoon, while nothing apparently had as yet been effected. Oti led us again to the house of Ehemodina, from which place we started for the king’s palace, nearly a mile further up the hill. After many zigzag turnings, and passing many low doorways and porches, which followed one another m a manner too irregular to be described, we were stopped at a small opening to await the Atta’s invitation. It would be superfluous to state the inconvenience experienced from the closeness of the place, increased by the assembled crowd. Mats were at length produced, but the floor was so uneven that sitting was as uncomfortable as standing. A pot of bamboo wine was sent in for our refreshment, but it was so sour that none of us could drink it, and it was given to the spectators, who enjoyed it much. A calabash of good cold water was brought, which was refreshing. We waited about an hour and a half, I need not say with much impatience, but with this consolation, that the business once over to-day, it would not be repeated to-morrow. At last we received the welcome message that we were called in by the Atta. We found him sitting outside the verandah of the palace, on a mud-bank overspread with cloth, with an old carpet at his feet ; on the carpet were placed his royal message sticks, with brass bells attached to them ; and an old broken Souter-johnny jug stood before him. He had on a silk velvet tobe, and a crown of white beads, fringed with red parrot-tails in the front, with other fanciful decorations. Ilis neck was covered with a large quantity of strung cowries, and coral and other beads. It was the same Atta visited by Captain Trotter in 1841. After the usual custom of paying and receiving homage from his subjects, he asked the Europeans to shake hands with him, which they did ; after which, I and Mr. Richards were asked to do the same ; we then took our seats. lie expressed his joy at seeing white men in his country again. We communicated with him through the medium of Haussa and Igiira interpreters ; Aliheli interpreted for us in Haussa, and one of the Atta’s men, who spoke Haussa, repeated the words to him in the Igara language. Dr. Baikie having instructed me what to say, because Aliheli could understand me better, I commenced by reminding the Atta of the visit paid to this place thirteen years ago by four ships, and told him that Captain Trotter was still living ; that the Queen, who sent Captain Trotter at that time, has now sent Dr. Baikie, accompanied by Messrs. May and Dalton, to ask after bis welfare, and to see whether the country is at peace, and the Atta as well disposed now as at that time ; that the Queen has not forgotten him, nor the treaties she had made with him through Captain Trotter. He replied, that he remembered Captain Trotter’s visit perfectly well, and that all things remained just as they were at that time. He was reminded that Captain Trotter had promised that traders would be sent to deal with him. Dr. Hutchinson was then introduced as a merchant who was come to trade with him ; upon this he ordered his attendants to gi\'e shouts of approbation, and expressed his great joy at the news. He said the place which Captain Trotter had selected for a trading establishment at the Confluence was not a suitable one, being too much out of the way, and liable to be disturbed by the Filatas ; and that he would rather advise the merchants to establish themselves at Idda, or at Ikiri market, which is so near that when a stranger was living there, he would be able to send a messenger every morning to ask after his health, which he could not do if he lived at the Confluence. I admitted the truth of what he said, but told him to consider that white men are very sensible, and always take right steps to accomplish their objects. I asked if any person were to be troubled with boils on his foot, whether it would alleviate the pain, to apply salve to his head”? He replied, No. I said, — Well, in order to prevent future disturbance by the Filatas, the Queen has sent some gentlemen to go by land from the north to the Sokoto, Bornu, and Haussa countries, to make treaties of peace and commerce with those nations, and to tell them, that not only they, but all the countries on the banks of the Niger and Tshadda, such as Ibo, Ig

that is till noon, was promised for this purpose. I next reminded him of another subject Captain Trotter had brought before him, namely, whether he would allow his people to learn the white man’s book, and to embrace their religion, as they teach it in other countries ; telling him that I was particularly sent to ascertain his disposition in this respect. He said, he remembered the proposal, and was as willing as before. The presents were then given, and about half-past five p.m., as it threatened to rain, the Atta withdrew, and we returned to the water-side just before dark, much satisfied at having accomplished this most disagreeable task. The political state of Idda at this time, like other places, is becoming confused by divisions and party quarrels. This proves that the power of the Atta is waning, and he may not be able long to retain his authority over a great part of his subjects, if these party quarrels are not soon put an end to. Since the death of Abokko, so frequently mentioned by the Landers and Oldfield in their journals, the town of Idda has greatly suffered; a great portion of the population, chiefly Abokko’s party, have left Idda, and parts of the town they used to occupy are overgrown with luxuriant grass, which gives the town a very deserted appearance. Those who left the town are residing all along the left bank, from Adamugu, a great way towards the Confluence, hence the number of villages which go by the name of Abokko, or some one or other of his children. It is said when the present quarrel is settled, Okeyin and his party will quit the town of Idda.

The present dispute, which caused Okeyin to encamp on English Island, is thus related: — Some quarrel originated at Asaba market near Onitsha, with one Agabidoko, whose father was an Igara by birth, but his mother an Ibo. Agabidoko’s people, for some offence given, attacked Abokko’s people in the market, when several of the latter were wounded and killed. By way of retaliation, Abokko’s people seized a wife of Agabidoko, and kept her in custody at Idda. Aje undertook a journey of ninety-five miles from Aboh to settle the matter, but he could not obtain an interview with the Atta, though the path was cleared for him from the palace to the water-side. It would seem that as Abokko’s people are the most powerful at Idda, the Atta was afraid to offend them, but whatever might be the reason, Aje had to return unsuccessful. A few days after Aje’s return, Agabidoko’s people made war against Abokko’s people, but had a bloodless battle, the latter being on the island, and the former on the river, and on their departure they took five Idda canoes away with them from the water-side; — in this state the matter still remains. When we were waiting at Ehemodina’s house, he expressed his wish that we should interfere in settling the matter between the two contending parties ; and he was told that, if the Atta should seek advice from the commissioned officer, or request him to act as a peace-maker between them, he would have no objection to do so. But the king never said a single word on the subject, and even when particularly asked whether the town and country were at peace, he answered in the affirmative.

August 2 : As we could not call at English Island yesterday to report the result of our interview with the Atta, we sent the messenger to tell Okeyin that we would call on him when the ship came near in the morning. We anchored close to the town, at the point of the cliff, to land some coals and to trade with the people till noon. A great number of people soon came alongside, and the ‘Pleiad’ was full of them. I accompanied Dr. Baikie to English Island with some presents for Okeyin, Ehemodina, and Oti the messenger. In return, Okejdn gave the Doctor two goats, and about forty yams, and we returned on board. Two of the Atta’s daughters came to see the ship ; they were shown into the saloon, and something was given them to eat, but they were too bashful to partake of it. Oti took care to wrap it up carefully for them to take away ; and they received presents from Drs. Hutchinson and Baikie, and I added two small glass plates, sent me by Lady Buxton, with which they were highly pleased. At half-past one P.M. we weighed, and steered very close to the cliff on which the town is situated, which presents a very romantic appearance, and is said to be about one hundred and fifty feet above the river. We proceeded about ten miles, and experienced some difficulty in finding the right channel; getting frequently into shoal water, from banks being a-head in various directions, in consequence of old channels being blocked up and new ones formed. Mr. Richards took the boat to sound, when the ship dropped anchor for the night.

August 3 : Got under weigh about six A.M. ;

and after some difficulties, we at last found the right channel, and made a good progress, the river becoming more contracted, and consequently deeper. We anchored abreast of Soracte mountain for the night. The people showed some timidity at first, but by persuasion they came on board with some ivory. The left bank of the river is now more thickly populated than in 1841. In consequence of the invasions of the Filatas, all the inhabitants of the right side have removed to the left, and built their houses upon the mountains as places of refuge. The right bank is more easily accessible to those marauders, but they would have difficulty in crossing the river before they could gain access to the mountains, as their chief strength lies in their many horses with which they chase this poor and defenceless people. No one who beholds it can conceive how this mountainous country can be unhealthy; the wind was fresh and pleasant, and every one seemed to enjoy it much. Many rocks which were covered when we were here in September 1841, are several feet above water, which shows that we must yet expect a greater rise of the river than at present.

August A : Got under weigh as usual, but when not more than a mile from the Confluence, the ‘Pleiad’ struck on a bank immediately after sounding three fathoms, opposite the town of Igbegbe. While they were heaving her off. Dr. Baikie, Mr. May, Mr. Richards and myself, landed at the town, to see the chief and collect some information. We were led into the house of Ama-Abokko, the principal chief in this district. He is the eldest sou of the late ss Abokko of Idda, and brother of Okeyin, who was encamped on English Island. Ama-Abokko received us very kindly, and admitted us to the back piazza of his private apartment, where he seated us ; and we told him the object of our visit to the Niger at this time. Ama-Abokko was not at this place when the Expedition was here in 1841, and the town was very small then; but since Dasaba’s invasion of the right bank, a great many of the inhabitants of that part of the river have fled to this place, and to other localities on the left side, for security. The inhabitants of Mount Patteh were obliged to give up their stronghold, because Dasaba disturbed them for two years. Ama has not received any intelligence about the white men who are travelling in the interior. From him we learnt, for the first time, that Panda (Fundah of Laird) was destroyed by the Filatas only three months ago, that the Idng was killed, and that the Filatas were about Toto, for whose safety he expressed much doubt. At our request he promised to send some messengers with us to tell us the names of the villages and places on the banks of the Tshadda as we ascend ; and we invited him on board the next morning. Here also was confirmed information which we had received at Adamugu, that Dasaba was driven out of Lade by his brother near Rabba, because the Nufi people preferred him to Dasaba, the latter being too tyrannical for them, and putting many people to death unmercifully for trifling offences. Dasaba has fled to Ilorin for refuge.

Mr. Richards, who accompanied Mr. Beecroft to Rabba in his last visit to that place in 1845, informed me, that Dasaba had told them when at Lade, that his expedition towards the Delta, was to revenge the death of Mr. Carr ; that king Obi of Aboh had sent to inform the Atta of Igara of the conduct of the inhabitants of the Delta, who had killed the white man coming to establish trade with the upper country, and that something must be done to keep the road open for free communication between them and the white men : that the Atta not having sufficient power to do this, sent to him as one concerned in the matter, and powerful enough to keep the road open ; and that he promised to bring a large force of horse and foot, provided the Atta would furnish canoes to take them across the creeks and rivers. Accordingly Dasaba brought down a large force, and encamped for a considerable time at the model farm : the Kakandas joined his army, and they marched downwards as far as opposite Adamugu, when Dasaba commenced his attack seaward, at which time about one hundred towns and villages were destroyed, but being afraid of losing many of his men and horses in the swamps, he returned. But as they have no principle to restrain their cupidity in time of war, the remainder of the Kakandas who had not taken timely warning to flee for safety to the left bank out of the way, fell a prey to Dasaba’s soldiers on their way home. Thus nearly all the right bank of the Niger, from opposite Adamugu to the Confluence, has scarcely a village to be seen, while the left bank is full of new and extensive towns and villages, which were not there in 1841. The very mention of Dasaba’s name is odious in the ears of the natives about the Confluence.

August 5 : Started early this morning with Drs. Baikie and Hutchinson, and Mr. May, to go to the top of Mount Patteh. Mr. May wished to sketch from that elevation, of about twelve-hundred feet, the juncture of the Kowara and Tshadda, but owing to the desolated state of the country, the valley was so overgrown with wood and high grass, as to be impenetrable, except where we came upon the track of elephants, now the undisturbed possessors of these once thickly populated districts. As we could not go on because of the thick grass and swamps, we returned to the boat and pulled further up, till we came to a landing-place, where a small canoe was seen under the trees, belonging to a small village of eight or ten huts, a scanty remnant of the once secure villages of Mount Patteh. This village is built on the first cone, about a third part of the way up Mount Patteh, where very old persons only were living. W e asked them the way to the mount, but they told us there was no way thither at this time, as Dasaba had driven or carried all the inhabitants away. The sight of these villages was truly pitiable. They pointed to the site of the Model Farm below, which is now covered with trees and grass, and asked if we were coming to rebuild it. I told them it might be taken up again in due time. They entertained us, according to their means, with Country beer and clean cool water, which they fetched from the side of Mount Patteh. We promised to give them some presents if any of them would come on board, and returned to the ship about ten A.M.

Ama-Abokko, the chief, had come early on board, and Captain Taylor had been talking with him about trading affairs till our return. Dr. Baikie called him into the saloon, and gave him some presents from Government, with which he was much pleased. We tried to get him to forward letters to the coast for us by way of Ilorin, Ijaye, Ibadan, and Abbeokuta, but he made so many excuses, that I evidently saw he was afraid to do it, though he did not like to say so, for fear of committing himself, because people might accuse him of sending a bad book or charm through Ilorin, as Dasaba their common enemy has taken refuge there ; and he did not sufficiently know us and our footing on that part of the coast. We reminded him of the person he promised to send with us, and told him also, that we would hire some of his canoe men, if he would let us have some, to which he consented, and raised our expectation as to his readiness. Ama-Abokko styled himself the king of this part of the country, and I tried to ascertain whether he was independent of the Atta, but could receive no satisfactory reply to my question. I dare say he did not like to tell us. That we might see more of the town and collect information, we went after twelve to Igbegbe, each one in a different direction, except that Mr. Richards and myself went together. Ivory was shown us as well as trona, (salt packed up in grass bags from the coast,) horses, and two slaves. I offered to purchase one of the owners herself, instead of the slaves, but she shuddered at the idea. I left her to infer from that the propriety of dealing in our fellow-men. Some slaves were in a canoe alongside the ship to-day. It is not to be wondered at, that many slaves are seen about just at this time, for many unfortunate persons who have suffered in the war between Dasaba and his brother, and such as have fallen a prey to the Filatas at the destruction of Panda, are now scattered about the country in all directions by their captors. Fortunately, they must remain in the country, as there is no place known in the Bight of Biafra for exportation of slaves, the only foreign slave-markets being Whydah and Porto Novo, in the Bight of Benin.

From the town of Igbegbe is visible that of Patta, about two miles distance. There are two places of this name, the first, near the left bank of the Tshadda, the other, between the first Patta and Tshewu. The first Patta and Tshewu are at war with Igbegbe, and soldiers come by stealth from them and shoot people, or catch them at Igbegbe and run away. I believe these two Pattas are inhabited by the people of Mount Patteh, who have taken refuge on the banks of the Tshadda. The chief, Ama-Abokko, never mentioned the circumstance of there being war between them, but always said there was peace. We returned on board about sunset.

August 6 : Sunday. Had service on board at half-past ten : preached from 2 Tim. L 7, on the former part of the text : “ God has not given us the spirit of fear,'' and applied it to individual members of Christ’s Church, but I preached in much weakness ; may the Spirit of God carry Ilis word home to the heart and consciences of those who heard it ! The people here speak the Igbira language, and we had no one who could speak directly to them. Our communication was carried on, either through the medium of Yoruba or Nufi, or through the Haussa language, before it was interpreted to the chief in Igbira. As this mode of communicating is a very inconvenient one, I was afraid of making use of persons who have not the least idea of the spirit of what I intend to communicate; and to attempt to convey any notions of the Christian religion through such channels would, I feared, lead to misconception. There are but few traders and inhabitants who can speak Haussa, Yoruba, or Nufi : the people in general speak the Igbira language.

The people were told yesterday, that to-day would be Sunday, or our sacred day, in which we do no business. They did not, therefore, come for trade, but a few small canoes brought beer and some eatables, which were purchased by the Krumen.